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  • fry master fpp255 explosion sound

  • guest

    Member
    February 28, 2018 at 12:00 am

    i have a problem with “fry master fpp255” when in operation mode a big sound like explosion hear from the machine. where is the problem?what can i do?

  • ectofix - Nashville

    Member
    February 28, 2018 at 4:40 pm

  • lighteningboy

    Member
    March 1, 2018 at 3:02 am

    thanks for your help my friend , but i cant find the vent tube to remove it , do you know where is vent tube?

  • fixbear - ADK NY

    Member
    March 1, 2018 at 8:04 am

    I have to ask a question here.  Frymaster has built many fryers, and yours is no doubt a Fryer, Performance Pro series Or FPP,  But they only made 35 pound, 45 pound and 55 pound models. 255 would be a double pot 45 lb. per pot fryer.  Problem is I can only find 35 and 45 lb. manuals in that series.  The other problem is they made a lot of different controls for them to large chains and to meet different country standards.  I know you are not in the US because you have 230 volt 50 cycle power. So does this fryer have a CE, UL or other safety rating?  It makes for different gas valves, wiring, and controls.  Regardless,  The gas valve vent tube comes off the gas regulator solenoid valve. It is just to prevent airborne grease from plugging the atmospheric venting over the regulator diaphragm from getting plugged and influencing the gas pressure. 

     

    It is common for grease to run down the outside of the tube and congeal over the end.  Any flow restriction to a regulator vent causes a delay in the operation of the regulator to maintain the set pressure.  May gas valves have a 1/8 inch brass plug with a hole in it as a vent.  But that becomes problematic with fryers and grease.  Having a tube is Frymasters solution.

     

    BTW,  take a flashlight and look down the burner vent in the back of the machine for a soot build-up.  Also common on  LPG and manufactured gas.

  • fixbear - ADK NY

    Member
    March 1, 2018 at 8:12 am

    What you are describing is a delayed ignition.  Fry-master likes to call it popping for the legal side.  It comes down to the following

     

    ImprImproper Burner Function
    In these types of instances, the burner ignites but exhibits abnormal characteristics, such as
    popping, incomplete lighting of the burner, fluctuating flame intensity, and flames “rolling”
    out of the fryer.
    PPopping
       indicates delayed ignition. In most cases, the main gas valve is opening, but the burner is not
     immediately lighting. When ignition does take place, excess gas bursts into flame suddenly, rather than
    smoothly igniting.
    The primary causes of popping are:
    1. Incorrect or fluctuating gas pressure
      2. Misdirected or weak pilot flame
       3. Clogged burner orifices
    4. Inadequate make-up air
     5. Missing or misaligned burner deflector targets
    6. Clogged vent tube (causing incorrect gas pressure).
    The last one is common and easily fixed by removing the vent orifice from the regulator and cleaning.
      Take your manometer and test the gas pressure. of the burner.
    You never stated the fuel gas used,  Is it the same as the nameplate gas?  Improper conversion will cause this as well.
  • ectofix - Nashville

    Member
    March 1, 2018 at 6:51 pm

    fixbear wrote:

     

    I have to ask a question here.  Frymaster has built many fryers, and yours is no doubt a Fryer, Performance Pro series Or FPP,  But they only made 35 pound, 45 pound and 55 pound models. 255 would be a double pot 45 lb. per pot fryer.  

    I’m 99.9% sure it’s a FPPH255.  A Foot Print PRO series H55.  Frymasters latest high-efficiency gas fryer set (a set of two) with their latest rendition of a FootPrint filter system (the PRO version).  FPP=Foot Print Pro.

     

    The type of temp control doesn’t matter.  The capacity of the fryer doesn’t matter either. 

     

    Its a design unique to Frymaster which employs a set of IR burners.  They go BOOM when something like I (or you, fixbear) delineated as a possible causal factor.  Because it is doing that (going BOOM!), someone who knows what they’re doing needs to address WHY it’s doing that…and fix it.

    If NOT – and the fryer continues to be used like that, then the IR burner tiles will blow out (if they haven’t ALREADY) and look like THIS:

     

     

    That’s a view of looking at an installed Frymaster IR burner with a blown-out ceramic tile.  Here’s the view of an uninstalled NEW burner:

    Image Viewer 

     

    lighteningboy, if you haven’t resolved your issue yet by finding something simple, quit messing around with it and call someone who knows what they’re doing.  You’re in over your head.

  • fixbear - ADK NY

    Member
    March 2, 2018 at 6:01 pm

    I agree whole heartedly on Fry-master trained tech.  Yes one can easily get in over there head on the infared units.

     

    It’s funny how when you look at a fryer it gives one the impression of (how had can it be).  Then one expiriences a Popper and slow oil return from the filter.  Makes you really have to use your head for something other than a hat rack.\

     

    I can say one thing,  we have tools.  Manometers,  Multi-meters, meggers, flashlights, Scopes, gauges and levels for a reason.   But if we don’t utilize them, or know how to use them,  what good are we.  And the most important tool is the one between our ears.

  • guest

    Member
    March 3, 2018 at 5:27 am

    My experience with these is from a long time ago. But what usually happened was the insulation that sealed the burner to the vat failed. The subsequent air/gas leak caused a delayed or external ignition. Sounded like a shotgun going off, in the kitchen. That in turn, would blow out more of the seal and sometimes crack the ceramic burner. The earlier designs would burn out the rail supporting the burners.

     

    If none of the above is found to be the problem, use an inspection mirror and look around the perimeter of the burners for any sooty or burnt spots, or any pieces of insulation hanging out where the burner contacts the vat. If you find any of these, you’ll have to remove, reseal or replace the burner. Its usually wise to do both of them at the same time.

     

    Replacement is NOT for beginners! I remember screwing up the first couple that I did.

     

    Rico

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