Supera F3R-1 evaporator fans not running at all.

[fixbear]

Very simple,   .Tthe digital control unit has the fans wired seperate and it has dual temp sensors.  Temp sensor!  Check your digital control for a fan light.  It indicates that the fans should be running. If no light Ohm out the sensor.  Two blue wires sensors on back of digital control terminals 10 and 11. 11 and 12 are the sensor for box temp.

Also the door switch is a double pole double throw switch that one pole is for the fans, and the others is for the light. Open door fans stop.

[fixbear]

I forgot to ask a few basic questions, Is the condenser clean?  Do you have any alarm codes on the digital display?  And lastly make sure the evaporator probe is still bonded to the coil.

[albumen]

clean: yes

Alarm: No

Probe:  thought so…I will recheck that

[ectofix]

Sounds like the fan delay function within that controller might’ve gone kaput.

[albumen]

Temp probe is tightly secured in the coil.  Loosened the fin grips and did not want to come out.  So I think we are ok there.

[albumen]

Fan light is on for the digital display.  I taped all the door switches closed so I could watch it run with doors open. Testing the back side of the digital controller (DC) with a multimeter, the fan control (blue wire) in the DC has no power while it is running and the DC is calling for the fans to run (by indicator fan light on the display).  I get power on other wires in the DC. So I have power to and from the DC but the fan controller appears dead.  Could it be a bad door switch?

[albumen]

All door switches Ohm out ok..nuts.  Open.Close and close.open all read 0.04 Ohm or 1 no resistance

* never done this*  Correct me if I am wrong

I decided to test the probe in the coil:  Using two small paper clips, I inserted them into the female plug side of the sensor so my leads could touch the contacts and not damage the plug.  I then touched the other probe to the connector directly above the paper clip.  Ohm 0.04.  Touching the leads together on my meter: 0.04 Ohm.  Then tested the other side in the same manner. 0.04 Ohm.  Crossing the leads from paper clip to paper clip yielded 1 or no resistance.  Left side paper clip to right side top and vice versa .. 1 or no resistance.  Top to top ..1. no resistance.  So does this mean the probe is ok??    

[fixbear]

Did you check the controller output for ac voltage to the fans?

 

You can either check for continuity terminals 1 and 2 or 120 volts terminals 2 and 5.  You can find a wiring diagram here. http://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/SPRA-Reach-In-R-F_iom.pdf. 

 

Use the last page for your unit.  Also verify that the machine has a 4 wire plug and has a good ground.  Lack of grounds on solid state within a building allows problems from both ground gradient and harmonics to effect the semiconductors negatively.  The fan relay in the controller is only 5 amp rated, and is series wired through all 3 door switches.

[albumen]

Yes.  #2 slot – fans on controller…no voltage with the fan indicator light illuminated on the controller.  I think the controller is bad.  Do you think I could jumper power to it to see if they come on or might that really blow something?

[fixbear]

albumen wrote:

 

Testing the back side of the digital controller (DC) with a multimeter, the fan control (blue wire) in the DC has no power while it is running and the DC is calling for the fans to run (by indicator fan light on the display). 

The two blue wires are the evaporator thermocouple.  To test you would remove them from the DC and ohm them. At the same time you would have to know the temp of the thermister and the manufacturer will provide a chart with the correct value at that temp. Aterately, look up the controller by the manufacturer and model. Dixel will have values on line. If the box is down, the two white wires are the box thermister and will be near the same.  But, you have a fan light, so controller is in fan on. Terminal 2 should be powered. 1 and 3 power the compressor relay.  .