Cleveland Range SGL-30-T1 probe failure

[fixbear]

First question, hand or power tilt?

 

When you say you removed the temp probe, are you talking the sensor from the pan, or the wires from the thermostat?  If the wires, there should be a resistance change with any temperature change. Also, is the thermiser conected with the right polarity?

 

Thing to test are the heat power switch, terminals 5 to 4 and 5 to 6 in the two on positions.  The high limit safety,  and the tilt safety switch. Especially the tilt safety.

 

You should also check that you have 24 volt at the gas module.  There is a air switch that has to close for it to have power. Improper air flow will not allow it to proof.

[gregct]

Ours have been prone to the insulation block around the probe tube failing, causing premature failure of the temp probe. Not a fun repair. Two ways to check, look into the sightglass on the left hand side into the combustion chamber, you should see the block of insulation just in front of the burner, cracks or broken pieces of the block will glow brighter than the rest. The other is to pull the probe, then run for a few minutes and observe the tube with an inspection mirror, if the probe tube starts glowing cherry red, the block has failed and you’ll have to drop the combustion chamber pan to replace it. Cleveland has a full insulation kit, as well as just the blocks.

There is also a small insulation ‘washer’/gasket that goes with the adaptor that makes the temp probe a twist-lock, if that insulation is damaged or missing it also can cause temp issues.

Cracks in the burner usually lead to misfires, delayed ignition etc and that is usually the cause for the insulation block failing, more often than not, we’ve had to replace the burner at the same time as the insulation. 

[fixbear]

Ok, your saying that when you replace the probe, the insulation gets damaged or moved. The probe should not be in the flame area or near impingement, but sensing pan bottom temperature. If the insulation is coming off the probe, Try using Isinglass (fish bladder) as a adhesive or high temp RTV  It sounds like the insertion of the probe touches the insulation causing damage. And that the kit is a more cost effective solution..  Are you installing the blocks to spec with the right fillers. and adhesives? 

 

Do you know what type of probe this is.  A  RTD is only good for 400. A  type K or J will work to 700 or 900 degrees before damage. if it’s turning red, your talking over 1500 F. There are specialized J’s that will take1200 and K’s to 1600, but hard to find and only air rated, not surface.   Brazing pans should never get over 450 for browning.  So your probe is getting prematurely coked.  This might be of interest to you on this.

 

RTDs (resistance temperature detectors) and thermocouples are temperature sensors that convert readings into electrical signals that can be transmitted to instrumentation such as switches, controllers, recorders, and thermometers.

Selecting a New Temperature Sensor

Though RTDs and thermocouples both measure temperature, they vary in maximum temperature, accuracy, reliability over time, vibration resistance, and cost. Use this chart to determine which sensor type will work best in your application

 

BTW, is there any repair on a brazing pan that is not a pain?

[fixbear]

I almost forgot,  Has anyone checked the burner venting?  Might be the cause of the whole thing.