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  • Lincoln 1301 electric impinger.  It heats to temp, but when it reaches the temp, it kicks out and cools down.  Any ideas?

    Posted by guest on July 28, 2015 at 12:00 am

    It heats to temp, but when it reaches the temp, it kicks out and cools down.  Any ideas?

    scottmccall replied 8 years, 7 months ago 1 Member · 14 Replies
  • 14 Replies
  • ectofix

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 4:39 am

    I’m personally not a good “armchair” troubleshooter.  Your question doesn’t provide enough details and is like saying “My car won’t run.  Any ideas?”.

     

    What do you mean by “kicks out”?  Does it keep running, but simply quit heating or does the unit stop running altogether?  In any case, there can be any number of things causing the problem.

     

    First and foremost, I’d check for proper cooling airflow inside of the control box.  If the cooling fan is covered with a layer of fuzz and restricting airflow, then that’s a problem.  Clean it.  With that corrected, operate the oven with the control box cover – observe it, monitor the temp.  See what happens when and what’s NOT happening when it should.

     

    There are several variations to that oven’s electrical configuration, based upon serial number series.  Here’s the service manual:

    http://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/LIN-1301_spm.pdf

  • ectofix

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 4:52 am

    AHH!  I failed to check your profile.  Your company is a “sports bar”, so you’re not a technician and you need help with YOUR oven, I take it?

     

    If you’re a fairly competent DIYer and pretty handy with tools, then at least clean up the control compartment cooling components and make sure that works.  Then check oven operation.

     

    If the oven is still acting up, then electrical troubleshooting skills and some knowledge of the oven’s electrical theory of operation  will be necessary in order to proceed.

  • russfesco

    Member
    July 30, 2015 at 5:44 am

    If the oven continues to run and it just stops heating, If there are no limits tripped then you need to check the air switch. The switch must be made in order for the unit to heat. If the air tube becomes blocked for some reason it can cause this to happen. Could also be a faulty air switch.

  • ryanreid1

    Member
    August 1, 2015 at 6:41 pm

    There has been good info posted already but just wanted to add:

     

    On an oven that is intermittent I’ll make sure the cooling fans are running and clean and check the air switch tubing like mentioned above. If all that checks out I’ll by-pass the air switch and go on down the road. More times than not a week or so will go by and oven works great. In that case, of course, I’ll return and replace the air switch. Sometimes though I won’t make it 10 miles and the ovens already acting up. Then you’ll have to continue troubleshooting.

     

    Btw, I don’t know what the OP is capable of doing on his/her own.

  • badbozo2315

    Member
    August 2, 2015 at 7:27 am

    >If all that checks out I’ll by-pass the air switch and go on down the road

     

    Yikes!   That’ll get you fired where I work.

  • ectofix

    Member
    August 2, 2015 at 9:21 am

    Agreed.  That’s a major taboo within our professional trade.  N-E-V-E-R leave safeties bypassed.

  • ryanreid1

    Member
    August 13, 2015 at 10:15 am

    I’ll agree that’s probably not the best “standard practice” and that you won’t do something if you’re not comfortable with it. I would ask you or your boss(since he’s the one that would fire you) to educate yourself rather than just going by what you hear.  I’ve fired these ovens with the blower motor unhooked before. They don’t make it long before the hi-limit that is less than 6″ from the element trips. Like I said, as long as the oven is clean I have no issue leaving it by passed temporarily but come back and replace it/wire it back into circuit.

  • badbozo2315

    Member
    August 13, 2015 at 7:52 pm

    >I would ask you or your boss(since he’s the one that would fire you)

    >to educate yourself rather than just going by what you hear.

     

    Wow.  Just wow.  And here I’ve been in this business for around 25 years, a CFESA master tech for over 10 years, still learning new things daily, it seems.  And you suggest jumping a safety device and driving away to see what happens. Sorry, no sir. No further education needed.

     

    Then again, I do have  a well practicised reputation in our branch for being an overly safety nut. So, perhaps you are truly correct with “that you won’t do something if you’re not comfortable with it” – that’s me in a case like this for sure.

     

    To each his own, I guess.

  • ryanreid1

    Member
    August 17, 2015 at 9:47 am

    badbozo2315,

    After re-reading my comments you quoted I feel like I came off as a “no it all”. I kinda responded in a hurry. I apologize. You’ve definitely got some experience on me and I have a certain respect for anyone thats lasted any great length of time in this trade.

    That being said, I dont want to put out any bad troubleshooting info. I want to ask you: What would be the proper troubleshooting procedure if you’re suspecting an intermittent air switch problem? Why is what I’m doing wrong/unsafe? I’m still learning daily as well.

    Best regards to you, Sir.

  • badbozo2315

    Member
    August 17, 2015 at 8:13 pm

    >What would be the proper troubleshooting procedure if you’re

    >suspecting an intermittent air switch problem?

     

    Replace it.  It’s not that expensive. Then you know. And you can sleep well that night. 

     

    Look, I’d never advise someone to be the proverbial parts changer, but in my view, you need to do *something*.  Looking things over for an hour is fine, but then you need to *do* something. A part you might suspect to be intermittant, change it out. Using your testing skills, available documentation, maybe calling the factory, use your best judgement, but never bypass, jump out, or disable a safety device, and leave it that way when you are not present.  Period.  These days, when something goes wrong, the last person or company that had their hands on a piece of equipment *will* be blamed, succesfully, if there’s a fire, err, as Garland says, a “thermal event”.  If they find out you bypassed a safety or temperature control, you, your company, and your customer are screwed. Do *not* let it be you.

     

    In a recent life, I played Service Manager.  Nothing drove me nuts more than sending a tech out to a job 80 miles away.  Tech scratches head for 2 or 3 hours, unit is running fine.  Next day, surprise, unit is down again. Send him out again, basicly with the above directive.  I *know* you’re not sure of what part it might be, but you have to *do* something to try to repair the customer’s equipment, and do it safely. Especially if the part is relatively low in cost.  If I had to, I could work the cost into the job some other way to cover having to eat the cost. If he thought it might be, say, a $1700 Rational computer, I might run out there with him before giving the ok.

     

    These days it’s all about safety, exposure to potential lawsuits, and covering one’s posterior.

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