Blodgett steamer SC-10E no lights or timer operationfixbear updated 2 years, 9 months ago 1 Member · 16 Posts
MemberAugust 4, 2017 at 12:00 am
Both top and bottom steamers working fine but the ready light, cooking light, and timer do not work. Its been out of operation for over a year. I have about 17 volts coming to the timers on the black wires and 1.5v to the cooking and ready lights. The timer measures about 16 kohms thru it. Need some insight on this one.
fixbear - ADK NYMemberAugust 4, 2017 at 3:46 pm
burtonmac, Unfortunately Blodgett does not make the wiring diagram available on line. If you can copy it for us, I’m sure someone would help give you insite as to what to look for. It’s not the first time many of us have followed another tech that installed a switch or some other item and swapped 2 or more wires incorrectly. I have seen this often on Vulcan snorkel ovens.
Looking forward to seeing a diagram on this.
MemberAugust 4, 2017 at 3:50 pm
How do I attached a copy.? I have a pic of it.
fixbear - ADK NYMemberAugust 4, 2017 at 4:00 pm
When you add reply, oa the top bar there is a camera icon. Click it and follow. Or click a link icon if you have it on a server and add the linc
MemberAugust 4, 2017 at 4:44 pm
ectofix - NashvilleMemberAugust 4, 2017 at 4:46 pm
QUESTION: You said both steamers are working fine. Are you saying that it’s supplying endless amounts of steam into the cooking compartment?
Of course, that should only happen when the COOKING MODE switch is set to CONTINUOUS COOKING or, if in TIMED COOKING mode, whenever the timer is set.
Before any of THAT happens, what it’s supposed to do is pre-heat the generator water temperature to 205°F. Once 205°F is reached, then it shuts off the heating elements and the READY light comes on. You wouldn’t see any steam during this pre-heat cycle.
From there, the only way you should being seeing steam is when it’s in a cook cycle. Of course, That’s when the COOKING light would illuminate.
MemberAugust 4, 2017 at 4:51 pm
So yes it is bring in steam constantly. Is it possible that all the lights are not working as well as the timers? See readings in previous comments.
ectofix - NashvilleMemberAugust 4, 2017 at 4:53 pm
So…if it’s steaming constantly, is that what it’s set to do? What’s it doing in TIMED COOKING mode?
MemberAugust 4, 2017 at 4:58 pm
See previous. I turn switch to On position and it brings water in and starts steaming. Whether timer is set or not. No lights come on at anytime during steam. Ready light or cooking light are not lit!!
MemberAugust 4, 2017 at 5:26 pm
Yes there is a thermostat. I adjusted it ccw about 1/2 turn but maybe not enough. I will try moving therm. all the way ccw first before I order all the lights and timers. Thanks
ectofix - NashvilleMemberAugust 4, 2017 at 5:37 pm
Is there not another switch to choose between TIMED or CONTINUOUS cooking mode? I’m not trying to riled you up! I just ask these questions because, when I’m looking at something…I have my eyes, ears and sometimes test equipment practically pinned to everything a unit does when I flip its switches. As you get more familiar with working on this stuff, you’ll do the same. It generally reveals a problem pretty quickly.
Enough of that, though.
SO…in the control compartment for each steamer cabinet, they each have what’s called an OPERATING THERMOSTAT. It’s just a simple KX-style thermostat…probably located under the contactor. It’s labelled a #9 in your schematic. That thermostat is what controls preheating of the the boiler (uh…I mean steam generator).
PartsTOWN’s picture of it:
Someone working on it in the past has tampered with them and turned them way too high. As such, the unit’s thermostat apparently set at a temperature which puts them in a constant preheat mode…well ABOVE 212°F. Until that preheat thermostat satisfies, the READY light, the TIMER and the COOKING light are rendered ineffective.
So with the unit OFF and drained, I suggest backing both thermostats all the way CCW. Then turn the cabinets on. Let them heat to whatever that setting might be. Monitor the pre-heat cycles. When they satisfy, I’ll bet all your lights and the timers work.
From there, adjust the thermostats so each boiler preheats to 205°F.
ectofix - NashvilleMemberAugust 4, 2017 at 5:41 pm
Now…WHY would you order new lights and timers? You’d already stated their input voltages in an earlier statement and obviously none of them are getting proper input.
MemberAugust 4, 2017 at 5:45 pm
Exactly!! That may be bc of your statement on moving the thermostat ccw. Then you said all lights may come on. Correct??!!
ectofix - NashvilleMemberAugust 4, 2017 at 6:28 pm
As long as those thermostats aren’t bad. They get that way. Or maybe some wiring issues. Only the proper use of a VOM, ammeter, pyrometer, a schematic, your knowledge & experience…and following proper troubleshooting procedures – will YOU know for sure.
FWIW: I’m not THERE to sniff out and see what’s actually going on, so don’t assume that everything I propose is the actual problem. I’m HERE…from my arm chair with an adult beverage in my hand – merely from to my own desire to help other technicians. Doing so while scrolling on-line through manuals, diagrams, pictures…and reflecting upon my own twenty years of experience. With my not being THERE, that’s all I got to go on in order to help YOU…the one who’s looking to get paid to resolve this issue.
So, you do what you think is right. Throw parts at it…lights, timers and even thermostats – whatever trips your trigger.
Personally, I TROUBLESHOOT a problem to narrow it down to wherever it tries to hide. I don’t haphazardly throw parts at something because I “think” that “might” be it or because of what someone else says. If I do “think” I found it, then I’ll try another angle to verify my suspicions. That’s part of a six-step troubleshooting technique that I learned forty years ago…and still use everyday.
As you might guess, I won’t replace something because of what someone else says. Even following a previous diagnosis behind one of my peers – other technicians, I’ll CONFIRM their diagnosis before installing the parts they’d ordered.
Anyway. I’m outta here. I hope all this helps you.
MemberAugust 4, 2017 at 6:41 pm
Enjoy your weekend my friend. Ive only been doing this type of work for a year. But not bragging. They have called out 2 different techs and at least four service calls later. No one has been able to even get the steam generators working. So at least I have the steam going constantly but trying to pin down why the lights and timers are not functioning.
Thanks for you input. Greatly appreciated!!
fixbear - ADK NYMemberAugust 4, 2017 at 9:33 pm
First off, thanks for sharing your schematic. I see several things that have to be satisfied for the machines to work. First off, water pressure. Next water level Everything hinges on the water level. Mineral build up on the probes may give lot’s of headaches.
Next is thermostat 9. Note that it has to be open for the ready light to light. When close, relay 11 is energised and the bypass wire that goes to the top NO contact provides power to the contactor and the other side of the ready light so that it will be out. Door switch will provide power to the NC lower contact, Only if thermostat 9 is satisfied will it provide power to the timer 12. Via the door switch. and NC terminal relay11. Also the continuous steam switch 24 (optional) (labeled cooking mode)
Power goes into the timer on terminal 1, back out to the upper NC terminal R11 and then the main contactor. Ready light will go out. Terminal 3 on the timer also powers the cooking light and steam solenoid. Also if there is a load compensation pressure switch, (optional) it will start and stop the timer if steam pressure isn’t present it spec. Like cooking solenoid not closing or door gasket leaking.
Like Ectofix say’s, the Thermostat at a proper setting is key on this. And a properly working door switch. Hopefully now you understand why.
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