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  • moyer diebel dishwasher water is gettilng over 200 f water is boiling

  • guest

    September 24, 2017 at 12:00 am


    I work for Cineplex entertainment , Maintenance and repair.

    We have ordered Many parts from you guys for a Moyer Deibel 401Ht dishwasher.


    the Problem we are having now is that the water is getting way too hot.

    actually boiling the water.

    I am not sure what to replace

    thermostat high limit part 110562

    or thermostat booster Part 109069

    Please advise?


    Best regards,


  • ectofix - Nashville

    September 24, 2017 at 4:57 pm

    WHICH water is getting over 200°?  Wash or rinse?


    Since you said the water is BOILING, I want to guess that it’s the WASH water – since you can’t actually see the rinse water until it leaves the rinse arms.  YET, you listed two booster control parts…so I’m confused.


    BTW:  Referencing the two parts you did happen to list, the high limit is just a safety.  A snapdisk thermostat which opens when excessive temperature is sensed.  In this case, 240°.


    I’m not going to do any piece milling or naming of possible parts you should replace.  I just spent twenty minutes perusing their manual and I’m seeing conflicting info is the manual about that washer’s configuration (i.e., a parts list says there’s a wash tank thermostat, while the schematic says there’s no wash tank heater).  As with most any technician, I’d just have to be there and look at it to know for sure.  So I’m suggesting that you call a repair company.


    DISCLAIMER:  I don’t work for PartsTOWN.  I’m just a tech who frequents this forum.

  • fixbear - ADK NY

    September 24, 2017 at 5:31 pm

    Tank water or incoming rinse water?  Two different thermostats. High limit is a third and normally never functions unless you have a heat run away like yours.It’s doing it’s job stopping it at 200.


    I assume you are talking about the booster heater causing your high temp at rinse or fill.  It will not be the high limit, as that is the safety to prevent run away and destruction of the booster heater elements.  The booster heater thermostat is what you need to check and the heater relay. More than likely your thermostat for the booster has failed and doesn’t go open on rise at  180. It depends on serial number as to the right one. The break is at 14478. below it is a 109069 and above a 0512108.  You can also tell by if it is side mounted or face mounted like the tank  thermostat.  When you look at the electrical panel, you will see 3 peristaltic pumps for the chemicals, a toggle switch to prime the booster and 2 adjustable thermostats. One is tank temp and the other is booster temp. They may be marked wash and rinse. Rinse is the booster.The cap tube for the sensing bulb goes into the top of the end of the booster above the heating element terminals. If you look at it careful without moving it, you will probably find a hole rubbed threw the tube from being routed wrong in the chassis. And why you have a problem.  Regardless, here is a service manual if you don’t have one..Also I highly recommend that you use a DVOM to test the inputs and output to the heaters and thermostats.  Be aware, that the booster heat locks out the tank heat till satisfied..


    BTW, if you register on this site, you will get replies.  otherwise you have to come back and search for them.  Also, you haven’t bought anything from us, as we are just tech’s that are willing to help other techs with a problem and have no affiliation with Partstown, but enjoy that they are willing to host this forum.  It helps to improve the quality of all field techs to solve  a problem.

  • fixbear - ADK NY

    September 24, 2017 at 5:34 pm

    Danm your quick.  Guess I type slow.

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