Anyone else having problems with TS11 Pizza Oven conversions from old Mercury FMEA valves?

[ectofix]

Several years ago, I converted exactly ONE deck oven to a TS11 with thermocouple – which was of course a kit.  If memory serves me, it seems there were some issues with it afterwards.  It’s been awhile though.  I hardly ever had to replace the FMEA hydraulic valves.  They were extremely durable.

 

I’ve always wondered myself how those conversions hold up to the extreme heat of a deck oven.  I’ve worked on many deck ovens that otherwise used a combination valve with thermopile.  As a comparison, I know that those particular thermopiles were shielded to withstand the higher heat.  On a weekend call once, I had to install a conventional thermopile to get them through the weekend.  That thermopile didn’t do very well.

 

With regards to the TS11 valve’s premature failure due to heat, I’ve only encountered that issue just a few times.  One particular *ethnic food* restaurant that always ran their range oven at the highest possible setting.

 

BASO valves?  I don’t know about their heat tolerance.  We’re certainly seeing allot more of those as compared to 10-15 years ago.  Nonetheless, (I probably don’t need to say this to you) stick to only what the manufacturer sends you.

 

Keep communicating with the manufacturers on these issues.  Maybe they can offer up better solutions.

[badbozo2315]

I would say, yes, the old FMEA units were about indestructable. Could take the high heat.

 

Deck ovens that are not flueing properly will roast the thermocouple. Range ovens that are not flueing properly will melt the thermocouple end into the pilot safety, when the safety is in front of the burner chamber.

 

I’ve tried putting the deck oven’s thermocouple lead into a section of copper tube, or into a fiberglass sheath, with no improvement.

 

I’ve seen catalog descriptions of Baso valves as “high temperature”, but have no reason to expect them to actually be so.

 

Do a smoke test at 500 degrees and make sure your oven is flueing properly.

[jackbennett]

That makes sense, seems like 7 out of 10 pizza ovens I do have no problem. There’s a lot of old pizza ovens here in New Jersey.

Forgetaboutit

Thanks for your input!

[gregct]

The bigger problem I’ve seen over the years is people not using the high temp thermocouples, the nickle plated ones, when doing the conversion. A standard thermocouple (think RS “Snap-fit”) will not hold up, BASO nickle plates about the first 8-10″ over the copper and they hold up a lot better/longer.

[guest]

Only way to go is Robert Shaw 700 millivolt safety and Robert Shaw 60″ pilot generator(no white rogers or any other will fail. You can usually get at least a couple years of service out of this set-up. Have seen it last much longer in ovens that are not cranked up over 500 deg.

[guest]

I agree converting to the mili volt system is the way to go. But on some Bari ovens it will not fit.  I never had one problem with the Blodgett pizza ovens when I put the TS 11 valve in.  It seems that the Blodgett gets more O2 then any other oven so it gets more air and never over heats the safety valve.  I find that the Bakers Pride Y600 is a big problem for over heating that safety valve.  It’s not the thermocouple it’s the TS 11 valve that is shutting off the pilot.   Take the end of a screw driver and tap the red button twice and if the oven goes off you know the problem is at that safety valve.  TRY IT 

It does work.   I have been fixing all pizza ovens since 1969. I am very  experienced on pizza ovens.