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  • Frymaster filtration system working slow

     fixbear updated 7 months ago 1 Member · 11 Posts
  • guest

    April 24, 2019 at 12:00 am

    I have Frymaster filtration system, the one with a pump and a lever you pull which turns it on.


    I’m running into an issue with it where it’s barely giving any oil back to the bin, I spoke to tech support and they said to put my finger over the inlet and if it sucks on the finger, then the pump is good.


    So I turned to the bin and did the cleaning myself rather than the guys who normally do it and I got it to work better. It just seems slow, took about 6-7 minutes.


    Do you guys think the pump might be running slower than it should be or something of the sort?

  • ectofix

    April 25, 2019 at 5:32 am

    Could be some debris stuck in the plumbing restricting flow.  Could be other possibilities too.  They made 3-4 different built-in systems over the past twenty-five years and each had some unique problems.



    Can you either post a model/serial # orpull out the filter pan, snap a picture and post it here?  I can give you some ideas on it them.

  • ectofix

    April 25, 2019 at 5:34 am

    By the way:  Do you have a RTI system connected to it?

  • fixbear

    April 25, 2019 at 6:36 am

    Ran into the same thing a few years ago.  Went nut’s checking for air leaks and all.  What it came down to was that the suction pipe from the bottom has a heater on it.  That heater coked the oil in the pipe. Was a long project to drill out all that carbon. 

  • ectofix

    April 25, 2019 at 5:21 pm

    fixbear wrote:


    Ran into the same thing a few years ago.  Went nut’s checking for air leaks and all.  What it came down to was that the suction pipe from the bottom has a heater on it.  That heater coked the oil in the pipe. Was a long project to drill out all that carbon. 

    That sounds like an old Filter Magic (always under a spreader cabinet). 




    I called that pipe you referred a “goose neck”, which had a female coupling at the top of it that slid over the male one on the pump inside the fryer as the filter pan was pushed in.  Two contact nubs protruding from the pan (I would call them “tits”, but we can’t say that here) would connect to a contact block under the pump to energize the 24v heat tape wrapped around the goose neck.  A GREEN light on the control panel would illuminate when that electrical contact was made.


    Yes, on those systems, the oil would eventually leave layer after layer (many years worth) of burned oil (from the heat tape) coating the inside of the goose neck until it’d eventually clog up.


    There was a small pipe plug on top of that female coupling which could be removed with a hex wrench in order to drill out the goose neck.  The best approach was to be equipped with replacement heat tape, some foil tape, a torch, a drill, the great outdoors and a Bunn deliming spring: 


    1. Remove the inner pan from the outer and set aside.
    2. Take the outer pan outside (for ventilation).
    3. Remove the goose neck’s enclosure from the outer pan, then strip away the old foil tape and heater tape. 
    4. Remove that pipe plug from the top of the goose neck coupling.       
    5. Load the deliming spring into your drill. 
    6. Fire up the torch and uniformly heat the goose neck tube until a stinky yellow smoke starts emanating from all orifices – thus burning your eyes, nostrils and making YOU stink for the rest of the day. 
    7. Feed the drill-powered deliming spring into that hole you’d removed the pipe plug from.  Work it through there over and over and over.  Keep it hot with the torch.
    8. Do that for…AWHILE – or until a bubbling mass of stinky, burned grease forms in the drain hole. 
    9. Let it cool, then pour straight greaser into that. 
    10. Run water through it and rinse thoroughly. 
    11. Drain it.


    Repeat this regime until there’s no more stinky smoke.  Then install the new heat tape & foil tape.

  • fixbear

    April 25, 2019 at 5:27 pm

    That be it, only the pump was higher up with a hose.  Always wondered what Organic acid would do.  I remember we had a tank of it in Vietnam for engine parts.  And it definitely removed all carbon.  But it was dangerous stuff to work around.

  • olivero

    April 25, 2019 at 8:36 pm

    That’s the one, the type you described. 


    I’ll take a look at this and let you guys know.

  • olivero

    May 2, 2019 at 2:54 pm



    Went through just about anything it could be today.


    Pulled out the rotor, bearings are fine so it’s not running slow, checked the drive shaft going into the gearbox, seal is fine, added an O ring for good measure.


    Then I checked the outlet tubing, pulled it off and shot it with compressed air, everything is fine. 


    Then I took the bin, changed all the O rings’ didn’t do a thing. 


    Then I took the bin apart, including the bottom and shot it with air, looks like the problem was there, tried to run a “snake” through it but couldn’t, so I drilled a hole in the U bend and ran a wire on a drill through it both sides and my oh my, there it was, bunch of crap in the tubing. Then welded it back together, wrapped it all back up and it worked just fine.


    Who would’ve thought, you guys were right.

  • ectofix

    May 2, 2019 at 5:05 pm

    I’m surprise you still have that old style.  That fryer is over twenty years old (1990s).  I haven’t seen one in MANY years.  None of my current Frymasters (last count = 38 of ’em) have that setup. 


    FYI: The first four digits of the fryer’s serial number is the manufactured date.  For example, a “9506” would mean June 1995.


    Anyway, glad to hear you got it!

  • olivero

    May 6, 2019 at 10:26 am

    Yeah, not sure why. Our fryer is only about 10 years old or so, it’s not like the one in the picture you had up there, it looks better than that.


    What a nightmare though, I hate deep fryers.

  • fixbear

    May 6, 2019 at 12:14 pm

    Fryer; A machine that looks so simple yet causes so much frustration.  Be glad it’s not one of the cheap ones.

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