Home › Forums › The Cold Side › Bev Air KR48 compressor
-
Bev Air KR48 compressor
Posted by tommiwv on February 12, 2020 at 5:37 pmBev Air KR48 refrigerator, 9027117 serial. It has a samsung sk 1a1c-l2w compressor. As far as i can tell the bev air pt# is r7439-110. Partstown lists it as not available, anyone know of a good ol tecumseh or copeland crossover ??
foodpro1860 replied 4 years, 1 month ago 6 Members · 15 Replies -
15 Replies
-
Enter
SK1A1C-L2W:Copeland had no results, but I only spent five minutes looking. Maybe try using the Tecumseh number to search for a Copeland equivalent to it.
I’ve never done such a cross-reference, so that Tecumseh tool is pretty cool. Sure seems that Copeland would have something similar.
-
Thanks, had no idea about the tecumseh cross reference tool. Although its probably what my supply house would use
-
I’m not getting anything from Copeland either, doesen’t even list Samsung as a competitor….
-
Your tecumseh replacement will be slightly higher and not have the oil cooling lines that the Samsung has. It will also have a few more BTU’s
-
Go to the heritage website they have p# r7439-110 showing one in stock at $2300. Probably should call them first to verify. You can also call the factory and ask what the BTus are …. it’s a 134a system I’d be worried about the cap tube as well. I’ve seen to many times (most certainly on 134a) that captube is what takes out the compressor.
They also show that same compressor for maxx air… not sure why but price is around $480.
-
Go to the heritage website they have p# r7439-110 showing one in stock at $2300.
Okay. Sure. That’ll WORK.
LOL!
-
He, He. For a compressor that cost $155. Damn there’s a lot of mark up .
-
They are just as inflated as LG is. Scrapped many a wine cooler due to the wholesale cost and availability of the miniature compressor they used.
-
So I’ve had this issue of cost due to a viability and recently a manufacture would not give me any info because they outsourced everything from China…. crazy I just wanted cap tube size and length. I know I can measure myself but needed to verify the previous repair had the right one installed.
-
What are the symptoms that your looking at the cap tube. In 55 years of doing refrigeration, I’ve only had to replace one. Not saying I haven’t replaced a few, but only one was in fact bad. With today’s equipment and filters it’s a rare item. Years ago our vacuum pumps would only pull down to a guessed 1000 microns. Accurate vacuum gauges were not out yet. So yes, we had contaminates in the system. Also manufacturing of compressors wasn’t as clean. It was very common for a compressor replacement to die after 2 to 3 years. Even the materials used inside the compressors have improved.
I commonly cut compressors apart to determine why they failed for years. You learn a lot about each manufacturer by doing that. The amount of metal and insulation that gets accumulated in the bottom of a hermetic crankcase is amazing. The worst was the rotary vane common in the late 70’s and up. Motor shaft with a elliptical cam and a spring loaded vane pushing on it. One manufacturer tried to put the desiccant balls into the condenser coil instead of a filter. They then added a fine screen near the end of the condenser. They would make about 5 years before plugging up. But they made you think it was a plugged cap tube. The first one you came across made you chase your tail.
Today’s filter dryers are so well made and have a fine enough screen that not much can get to the cap tube. Part of why they can now use such small, shorter cap’s.
You’ll find that there are two types of manufacturers today. One spends a lot of time and money testing their designs. Others will just copy a design and market it. Works on paper, but problems in the field. Often farmed out assembly.
-
My typical issue is that the customer has Cleaned or has not maintained their equipment. In the 10 yrs roughly only cap tubes replaced have been on134a systems where it has overheated unit and cause partial restrictions. I have blown out some captubes but seems to bite me in the butt down the road, I mean for the extra 30 min it’s really not a big deal to me.
-
Yea, R134 in the early years was a oil reaction to insulation of the motors. I have a hydraulic pump tool that you put a certain diameter of wire inside the cap, tighten the compression fitting down after bleeding it, and push it through with the correct refrigerant oil.. But it is a bit messy.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Here you go. Medium temp?
Tecumseh ae2413
Copeland afe12c4eiaa901
-
The original is a low back pressure. 10.68cc displacement and 1204 BTU. Not a medium temp like I would expect in a reach in.
-
-
I don’t know if you have had your question answered or not, but call Bev-Air tech support and they have a paper that shows the correct alternate to the Samsung compressors. Make sure you ask for someone who has been there for a while, and not one of the new guys.
A little more background info on the “K-Series”. They were originally imported from Turbo Air. The two companies had a nasty breakup and Bev-Air lost their ability to purchase parts from Turbo Air directly. This results in ridiculously high priced parts for the end users. I believe that they are also no longer bring those parts in anymore.
Log in to reply.