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  • Call backs… Your always list?

    Posted by guest on May 19, 2015 at 12:00 am

    Your “ALWAYS LIST”

     

    I worked for a company once that had a strange call back system. You could replace the faulty ignition module on a convection oven on Monday and leave with the unit working 100%. On Friday, Bubba pushing a food cart knocks the door handle off and they place another service call. When that serial number hits the system guess what? CALL BACK! Within 7 days any new service call was a call back and it was used in some kind of VooDoo math to go against you on your yearly evaluation. They said it was fair because it was the same for everyone, I say it was all about chance and bad luck…

     

    Call backs happen. It’s late, you’re covered in some goo that would take a team of scientists to test and the customer is over your shoulder asking “Figured it out yet?” etc. Even on good days things can be overlooked. We all know the first rule to avoid callbacks is to SLOW DOWN. But there are other things you learn over time and with experience. I have an “Always List” in my head as I’m sure you do as well. I think we should share some of those here. You may have some I’m not aware of and we could collectively gain from each other.

     

    I’ll start with no more than 3 of mine and would encourage you to do the same. That way several of us can respond and if the thread goes cold, those that have already responded can add 2-3 more to bump it and start it up again.

     

    • When replacing a blower motor, I always replace the blower wheel. It is easy to damage a blower wheel when removing it. Its old and has been baked for years. Metal fatigue has set in and you have to use a puller to break through years of carbon build up. If you put that wheel back on a new motor, there is a good chance it will be warped and begin to wear on the new motor bearings. Sometimes you have to cut the wheel off because it’s seized on.
    • When replacing a compressor that has a contactor, I always replace the contactor. There’s nothing like spending a day changing a compressor on the roof only to go back in couple days or on call because the contactor failed or got stuck. Some manufactures require it to warranty the new compressor. (I purposely left one other item off that’s an always with a compressor, list it if you catch it.)
    • When putting refrigeration gauges on a small critical charge system (Example: 9oz), I always pull the charge and weigh it back in. First off I try not to put gauges on something this small unless its absolutely necessary to properly diagnose. This may seem like added work but your hoses alone will take a critical amount of refrigerant from the system. You will be back very soon because the customer will be calling. I also built gauges that screw directly on the port without hoses. It has a tee to attach your gauges if needed. Its less than a pound and the customer should know that the minor cost is better than lost product and down time.
    alnelson replied 8 years, 4 months ago 1 Member · 6 Replies
  • 6 Replies
  • ectofix

    Member
    May 19, 2015 at 6:15 pm

    bustedknuckles wrote:

     

    When replacing a blower motor, I always replace the blower wheel.  Sometimes you have to cut the wheel off because it’s seized on.

     

    Absolutely agree about replacing the wheel too.  I’ll share a trick I learned.  For those wheels that are so stuck that a puller isn’t getting it and you need to cut the shaft.  Use a hole saw that’s j-u-s-t big enough to fit around the hub.  Remove the centering bit and have at it.  After you’re done, all that’s left is the wheel hub on the motor shaft and clear access for cutting it.

     

    When replacing a compressor that has a contactor, I always replace the contactor.  I purposely left one other item off that’s an always with a compressor, list it if you catch it.

     

    The dryer-filter.

     

    Along the same lines, I (try to remember to) replace the contactor for blown heating elements.  If they run directly from KX thermostats, replace those.

     

    When putting refrigeration gauges on a small critical charge system (Example: 9oz), I always pull the charge and weigh it back in. First off I try not to put gauges on something this small unless its absolutely necessary to properly diagnose. This may seem like added work but your hoses alone will take a critical amount of refrigerant from the system. You will be back very soon because the customer will be calling. I also built gauges that screw directly on the port without hoses. It has a tee to attach your gauges if needed. Its less than a pound and the customer should know that the minor cost is better than lost product and down time.

     

    I like that tee fitting idea.  I have ice machine stubby guages I always used to check pressures on those little systems.  Of course, if using regular manifold guages on ANYTHING, disconnect the low-loss high side hose and let the compressor pull all refrigerant from your guages back into the low side.

    This is a great topic you bring up…and well presented.  I’m with you – I’ve never heard of that 7 day policy.  You’re correct, that’s strange.

     

    I’ll add ONE thing for now.  Before closing ANY call, run the equipment through ALL modes of operation.  Begin from turning it on and ending by observing it shutting down.  Do EVERYTHING that they must do to operate that equipment.  Be meticulous.  If it’s a dishwasher, run racks through it.  If it’s a slicer, have them slice something with it.  If it’s cooking equipment, use your best judgement on whether to have them cook something with it.

     

    Observe all aspects of operation to take note of its cycles.  Calls for heat, calls for water, calls to drain (like steamers or combi-ovens).  Run the timer and let it time out until an alarm sounds.  Open and slam doors.  Check fans on high and low speeds.  Check infinite controls by timing their cycles at various settings for some relative hint that they’re working properly.  Get behind it and check the cord and plug.  Is it properly grounded?  If it’s a gas unit, did you inspect the flue?  If it’s electric, did you inspect for discoloration from overheating connections?

     

    I could go on…

     

    Doing all this is so you can identify any other potential problems.  If you find one, but it was unrelated to why they called you there, bring it to their attention.  If they opt to not address it now due to expense, document it.

     

    This procedure is what I learned to do and I’m pretty thorough.  Like bustedknuckles said,  SLOW DOWN.  Take some time to do these things.  You’re on their clock, so give them the greatest value of the service that you’re trained to do.  Show them you’re good at what you do.

     

    I bring this up because I’ve worked with or followed behind numerous techs that find it, fix it, have them sign for it and off they go.  Yes, customers like FAST!  But did that tech really provide the best service?  Plus…being fast can also often lead to callbacks from having missed something.

  • bustedknuckles

    Member
    May 19, 2015 at 7:23 pm

    Absolutely agree about replacing the wheel too.  I’ll share a trick I learned.  For those wheels that are so stuck that a puller isn’t getting it and you need to cut the shaft.  Use a hole saw that’s j-u-s-t big enough to fit around the hub.  Remove the centering bit and have at it.  After you’re done, all that’s left is the wheel hub on the motor shaft and clear access for cutting it.

     

    -sorry… Copy and paste from my phone doesn’t give all options.

     

    You know, I’ve never done that. I cut through the wheel with a long blade and bent it in half to get to the shaft but I’ll have to try that! See, it’s working already!

  • koolrider

    Member
    May 20, 2015 at 6:57 am

    Hey Bustedknuckles you may also want to add that when replacing any motor to always changed the capacitor and in any situation with a pump down system mainly on walk-ins to test to be sure the low pressure control cuts the compressor off because if it doesn’t it may run in a vacuum and damage it

  • timm

    Member
    May 20, 2015 at 7:15 am

    In my experience ,talking to the customer about their equipment can have a positive effect on call backs.I have found that asking a few questions can clear up issues with improper use and machine expectations.I have found this especially true with filter systems. I know time is money to customers, but sometimes slowing down and communicating can go along way to solving call back issues.

  • totaltech1

    Member
    May 20, 2015 at 1:39 pm

    My Rule of thumb is simple, If you can convince the customer to pay the ” Callback ” invoice then its not a callback

  • alnelson

    Member
    November 15, 2015 at 7:11 pm

    Whenever you do anything on a refrigeration system,

     

    See what the thermostat is set for

    The customer probably cranked it down to 20 below zero in an attempt to fix their system before they called for service. If you forget to check the thermostat, there may be a callback for the case or box being too cold.

     

    Check the defrost timer (if so equipped)

    Mark the defrost timer with a sharpie and see if it advances, if it doesn’t advance you have a possible bad clock. Set the clock to the correct time and inform the owner/manager how long until it goes into defrost. Otherwise you risk a callback an hour later that its broke again, when really it just went into defrost.

     

    Check the refrigerant charge

    If your service call had nothing to do with the refrigeration system, just do a quick external check. Make sure all fans are running, evap coils not frozen, condenser clean, check the sight glass, check the receiver level, or on a sealed system just feel the lines to make sure discharge is hot, liquid is warm, suction is cold.

     

    Not only will these help reduce callbacks, but will also provide better service to the customer since you might be able to identify another issue and prevent a future service call.

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