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  • Commercial Grade Kegerator Error Code?

     fixbear updated 1 month, 4 weeks ago 5 Members · 14 Posts
  • chefhenryclay

    Member
    January 15, 2020 at 7:29 pm

    My Kegco ZCK-163 beeps and shows an error code on the display after plugging it in. I turned it off for a couple of days and the same thing happens. It did start up for about 2 minutes with the error code but then shut down. It is only a 20 months old so I am thinking that it is a relay or control board issue?

  • techtownmayor

    Administrator
    January 16, 2020 at 2:53 am

    Thanks for joining the site! There isn’t much out there for their line of equipment, especially on the commercial side. All I could find was this error code chart (attached below) – does your error match any of these? 

    Apparently the most common error is related to sensors, and a call to them will usually get you the service manual. Hopefully, some of our expert members may be able to chime in and get your issue resolved! 

  • fixbear

    Member
    January 16, 2020 at 5:22 am

    The ZCK’s are not really commercial grade machines.  They only have a one year warranty for a reason.  Namely the cold plate on the back wall. A evaporator  made of a aluminum glued stamping that over a short time of contraction and expansion will develop a non-repairable leak.  Kegco is notorious for calling machines as commercial grade for the home brew market.

    Regardless, You never said the error code, so this is just a guess.  Check the white plastic cover over the wall sensor to see it it has gotten hit with a keg or gas bottle. The other ice sensor is mounted to the cold plate.

  • chefhenryclay

    Member
    January 16, 2020 at 2:26 pm

    It is an E4 error code on the display, most likely a sensor. 

    You said the Kegco company might provide me with a service manual as all I could find is a parts diagram.

     I guess Kegco might have the part to fix it?

     Anyway, You are right it is a counterfeit commercial Kegerator. 

  • gosser

    Member
    September 27, 2020 at 10:06 pm

    Did you ever figure this one out? I have the same unit but mine won’t get colder than about 55°. I removed the sensor and got an audible alarm and error code… I soaked the temp sensor in ice water and then plugged it back in. It read 37° but as I held the sensor in my hand for a few min the temp never registered a change. I unplugged it again and warmed it up. Plugging it in it registers 79°. I have left the unit running for about 30 min and it still reads 79°. Unplugged and immediately plugged it back in and now reading 50°. The back panel is cold and has small amounts of ice on it so I think it is cooling. Not sure if this is a bad sensor, board, or digital panel?

    If you replaced your sensor where did you find it. I cannot find anything on the internet about the part. Found the parts list but no parts for sale anywhere.

  • fixbear

    Member
    September 28, 2020 at 8:57 am

    gosser, To test a thermistor, one uses a ohm meter. There are 2 on your machine, one to monitor the interior temp and one to monitor the evaporator. Being the cooling inside a cold plate cooler has no fans to move air, only convection* and the sensor is at the top forward it will be at the warmest point of the case. If you have a leaking door gasket or added a unsealed hole to the box, it will never cool to temp. There is also a considerable time lag for the box to cool every time the door is opened.

    If the cold plate has reasonable frost/ice that is even top to bottom, it will be near full charge. If you are only seeing ice near the inlet area (cap tube) and the compressor is running, and the condenser is clean, and the fan is at normal speed, Then you have a refrigeration problem.

    * Convection air circulation is based on the fact that cold air is heavier than hot air. The cold air drop’s and pushes the hot air up.

  • gosser

    Member
    September 28, 2020 at 9:41 am

    Great feedback fixbear. What is the expected result in the ohm reading?

    I don’t have any leaks and this unit ran fine for 18 months and stayed around 37°.

    What is weird is that the digital readout only showed the temp when I reconnected the sensor. That seems odd to me.

    Thanks again

  • chefhenryclay

    Member
    September 28, 2020 at 10:07 am

    For myKegco Kegerator, I replaced the control board and bypassed the back wall sensor by just connecting the very small wires that are on each side of the plastic sensor to each other. Error codes and beeping are gone and unit is working again. It does take about 15 minutes for compressor and fan to kick on.

    fixbear is right about these units, they are not commercial grade.I would suggest calling Kegco and tell them your issues with the unit. It looks like they are the only ones who sell the parts needed to fix it.

  • fixbear

    Member
    September 28, 2020 at 10:13 am

    Just for information, the commercial kegorators use a Carel temp control mounted in the back bottom. Looks like this.

  • fixbear

    Member
    September 28, 2020 at 10:24 am

    they are not commercial grade.

    The give away here is the word “Grade”. Just a sales tool to avoid litigation from a inferior product.

    If you want a real commercial one without a high cost look at their BF MPXCK-1B.

  • gosser

    Member
    September 28, 2020 at 10:28 am

    Thanks all. I use mine under a bar I built in my basement. I’ll check the ohms on the sensor, and also call kegco. Luckily I got this think at discount when I bought it. May just end up replacing the whole stinking thing. Attached is my bar though.

    • out_go_the_lights

      Moderator
      September 29, 2020 at 4:50 pm

      Damn. That’s a nice bar you got there.

  • gosser

    Member
    September 29, 2020 at 5:20 pm

    Thanks dude. That was a fun 3 months of work on my part. Learned as I built!

    I also ran a multimeter on my thermistor in the main area of the box and got no reading on it. I think it is bad so I’ve ordered a replacement from amazon which should be here tomorrow. Will cut the old plug off the bad one and solder it on the new one tomorrow and see if that does the trick.

  • fixbear

    Member
    September 30, 2020 at 4:29 am

    You should know that with a RTC thermocouple, there values can be different for each design use. They can be rated as 100 ohm to over 100,000 Ohm. They are also specific for the working environment they are in. Highly have to recommend OEM to avoid a offset. There should be a wiring diagram attached to the cooler. Often they have the thermistor value on them.

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