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E101-G (Natural Gas)
E101-G (Natural Gas)
Figured I had better start a new Discussion in case the older thread “Duke E101-G- Pilot flame staying lit” doesn’t show up.
Hello all,
I also have an E101-G (but natural gas)
My pilot stays lit like the OP. From reading this thread…It’s normal. I’m good with that.
My problem is when I shut the doors (or when it shuts off due to temp reached) the burner and fan (high: both burners or low: single burner) kicks on n off…on n off…on n off repeatedly…never ending.
Just for a little back story….I’ve been lighting the pilot by hand for a while now due to the pilot ignition not auto lighting. No biggie
I sure would appreciate a little guidance into what might cause this malfunction.
Thanks in advance,
WvChamp
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9 Replies
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Off hand, that sounds like a door switch.
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Check the J1 connector to be fully in. It’s a 15 pin Molnex. Like in this manual on page 26.
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My pilot stays lit like the OP. From reading this thread…It’s normal. I’m good with that.
You are incorrect. The pilot should NOT remain lit.
In your oven’s circuit design, the PILOT and MAIN burners should go out whenever the door is opened, the thermostat satisfies or when the oven is turned off. That is because ANY of those scenarios will de-energize the ignition module.
Your oven uses what is called “intermittent pilot ignition”. As such:
The ignition module energizes the PILOT valve while simultaneously sending high voltage to a spark electrode to ignite the pilot burner. That
same electrode also senses when a pilot flame is established and sends a
signal back to the ignition module in order to “prove” that the pilot
is lit. Only when a pilot flame is proven will the ignition module energize the MAIN burner valve.All of that is a VERY important safety feature of that oven. I’ve personally seen the results of an oven BLOWING UP. The oven was destroyed and an employee was hospitalized.
Beings that you are having to physically light the pilot yourself and because you’re witnessing a pilot which ALWAYS stays lit when it’s not designed to be means that your oven is unsafe for use. THE PILOT VALVE IS LEAKING. I HIGHLY recommend that you disconnect the oven from its power and gas sources until it’s repaired.
Since your oven obviously has other, unrelated issues as well, you would be FAR better off by calling a service company to take a look at it.
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To ectofix and fixbear,
I greatly appreciate your reply’s.
Sorry for not replying back quicker.
I took your advice and disconnected the oven and made other arrangements for my baking needs. But I’m getting to the point to where I need this oven to be Fully…but Safely,,, operational.
As I understand ectofix….the Pilot Valve is leaking.
On page 20 of the above posted Manual (Thanks fixbear)…the Pilot Connection somewhat shows coming from the Gas Valve.
So replacing the Gas Valve would fix the Pilot Valve leaking problem ?
Would it also fix the “kicking on n off…on n off problem ?
If so….Is the Gas Valve able to be rebuilt?
Thanks so much for your help on this matter,
WvChamp
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I second ectofix that could be dangerous and you do not want that liability.
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Gas valves have not been a rebuild item in the field for many years due to liability. However there are some models that are factory rebuilds.
The constant on and off is usually a flame sensing problem. That has to be troubleshooted with a good DVOM that has a milliamp capability. I’ve found over the years that it will most often come down to bad ground connections between the sensor and the Fenwall ignition control. Often just the pilot/sensor mounting.
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Thanks for your reply fixbear.
I will be checking the Pilot/Sensor mounting and the grounds….and wiring back to the Fenwall Ignition Control.
My question on the Pilot Valve Leaking…..
That would require replacing the Gas Valve ?
Thank again,
WvChamp
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Yes, couple compression fittings swap adapters over and pop it back in.
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Thank You..Appreciate the help
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