Frymaster FPH155-SD wont stay lit

[nafets47]

To answer a question that disappeared.

It has a blower on it when you open the cabinet door.

The model number is in fact FPH155-SD. The guy I replaced had the wrong manual in the office.

[nafets47]

When I select the manual on Partstown, it pulls up the H50/55 series fryer manual. Is that that same thing?

[ectofix]

Yes.

[ectofix]

So it’s an H55 –

Therefore your remark about it remaining lit for only 5 seconds and then going into help makes perfect sense. That’s an IGNITION FAILURE condition. The ignition module will lock out in five seconds if it can’t prove flame.

Basically, after the temp control calls for heat and energizes the ignition circuit, the ignition module powers the gas valve while simultaneously sending spark to BOTH ignitors (there are TWO burners – one on each side of the vat).

If the ignition module can’t prove flame (through flame rectification) within five seconds, the module terminates the ignition trial, locks out and sends an alarm signal to the controller that there’s a problem.

About all I can tell you to do is to:

Make sure the blower is running, nothing is blocking the air inlet and the bow-tie looking air dampener is open about 1 ½” Make sure the gas supply is fully turned on and the gas hose quick-disconnect is fully engaged. Gas pressure from the combination valve to the burners should be 3”WC. Inspect to be sure the wire connections to each of the two ignitors are clean and secure. Inspect the exhaust flue to be sure it isn’t blocked by anything.

Those are just off the top of my head. Based on your telling me you saw a blue flame, that eliminates the possibility that the drain safety switch is open. It will have one of those if there’s a built-in filter system – which your DOES.

There’s a steep learning curve for learning how those fryer operate, since they appear complicated to the novice. For that matter, it’s an entire days lesson in the classroom at their factory in Shreveport LA.

Do you have access to it now? If so, can you give me the first six digits of the serial number?

EDIT: Never mind about the serial number. Looks like you found the manual.

[nafets47]

So I checked the voltage from the ignitor to the sensor on the module and was getting 2.5v and when it went into alarm it jumped to 3.5v

I unplugged the alarm plug and for whatever reason the fryer has not gone into trouble since.

I havent checked it in the past hour, which I will be going back in 2 hours to look again. Just had to step out of the building.

This make sense?

[nafets47]

I just re-read my post. So let me clarify:

I unplugged the sensor connection and put my volt meter from the ignitor wire which connects to the sensor port, and checked the voltage to the module. It was reading 2.5v and then went into alarm when it hit 3.5v

I then turned off the machine, replugged in the ignitor wire to the sensor port and then unplugged the alarm wire.

Fired up the machine and it no longer went into alarm while I was there for approx 5min.

[ectofix]

That’s not a fix.

Go back and reconnect the alarm. All you did was cut off the communication from the ignition module to the temp control panel to indicate that there’s a problem.

THERE IS AN ISSUE with either the creation of a proper flame at the burner OR the flame sensing circuit.

There are too many details about what to check and why you should check it for me to go into it here. Mostly about reading flame current. I’m simply not going to give day long lessons here.

You must know and understand that fryer, gas controls and the fryer’s circuit configuration to properly troubleshoot it.

The best I can do is to link you to a Frymaster Technical Reference Manual. However, I can’t find any on the internet, so I’ve attached a 2004 version. It says it’s for H50 & 52 fryers, but it all works the same.

Beware: Just like the service manual – it gets complicated due to all the variables of that fryer’s design.

[ectofix]

By the way. DON’T attempt voltage readings of the flame sensing circuit. That might damage the ignition module.

Proper readings are done using the micro-amp (μA) setting of your meter…if it’s capable of doing so. Not all meters CAN. THAT test determines whether there’s proper flame rectification to prove flame by the ignition module.

That module in your picture requires 0.7μA within five seconds to prove flame.

[ectofix]

ANOTHER BTW:

VOLTAGE reading should be done in parallel.

AMPERAGE readings are done in series.

[olivero]

I went over with him and checked the signal coming back from the flame circuit, it was 2.2.

Alarm wire was plugged back in and it seemed to work fine, I’m wondering if that flame sensor wire was loose or the connection was corroded.

[fixbear]

Ah! 2.2 what?

[ectofix]

That very well could be the case. The terminals on those white wires connected to the igniters get HOT. They do get oxidized over time.

If I see that, those hi-temp wire terminals are the first things I’ll replace.

OH, and YES….2.2 (what?). Please speak with a unit of measure that you’re referring.

[nafets47]

It was 2.2 micro amps.

Yea, like olivero said I reconnected the wires and everything was working fine. The chef’s were using the fryer on Friday night and all of Saturday without issue. I will check again to ensure no issues throughout the day. Will keep everyone updated.