MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 4:46 pm
So got a fryer issue.
The chef that uses the fryer told me that the fryer goes into trouble consistently. He did what the manual said and turned it off and waited 30 sec to turn it back on. Apparently he has been doing this for a month and didnt tell me.
I looked at the pilot light and it lights up (blue) without issue then just turns off and goes into trouble.
I read olivero’s post last year about the fryer issue he was having and that the chef using the machine was moving it past the safe setpoint. This is not happening.
I turned off the machine, moved the temp down to 0, then moved it up until it lit the pilot light and within 5 seconds no matter where it was set the machine went into trouble and the pilot went out. There is still approx 0.5” of space to move the temperature knob before it hits the end of its “swing”
I checked the breaker and nothing is tripped, I reset it anyway. The machine has been being used for a month with this issue and it has been getting worse to the point where I am at now.
I personally have never worked with or used a fryer before so have no clue where to start from with this machine.
Also I dont know if this data makes any sense or am I being incomplete with the data I am providing
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 4:48 pm
To answer a question that disappeared.
It has a blower on it when you open the cabinet door.
The model number is in fact FPH155-SD. The guy I replaced had the wrong manual in the office.
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 4:56 pm
When I select the manual on Partstown, it pulls up the H50/55 series fryer manual. Is that that same thing?
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 5:02 pm
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 5:01 pm
So it’s an H55 –
Therefore your remark about it remaining lit for only 5 seconds and then going into help makes perfect sense. That’s an IGNITION FAILURE condition. The ignition module will lock out in five seconds if it can’t prove flame.
Basically, after the temp control calls for heat and energizes the ignition circuit, the ignition module powers the gas valve while simultaneously sending spark to BOTH ignitors (there are TWO burners – one on each side of the vat).
If the ignition module can’t prove flame (through flame rectification) within five seconds, the module terminates the ignition trial, locks out and sends an alarm signal to the controller that there’s a problem.
About all I can tell you to do is to:Make sure the blower is running, nothing is blocking the air inlet and the bow-tie looking air dampener is open about 1 ½” Make sure the gas supply is fully turned on and the gas hose quick-disconnect is fully engaged. Gas pressure from the combination valve to the burners should be 3”WC. Inspect to be sure the wire connections to each of the two ignitors are clean and secure. Inspect the exhaust flue to be sure it isn’t blocked by anything.
Those are just off the top of my head. Based on your telling me you saw a blue flame, that eliminates the possibility that the drain safety switch is open. It will have one of those if there’s a built-in filter system – which your DOES.
There's a steep learning curve for learning how those fryer operate, since they appear complicated to the novice. For that matter, it's an entire days lesson in the classroom at their factory in Shreveport LA.
Do you have access to it now? If so, can you give me the first six digits of the serial number?
EDIT: Never mind about the serial number. Looks like you found the manual.
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 6:57 pm
So I checked the voltage from the ignitor to the sensor on the module and was getting 2.5v and when it went into alarm it jumped to 3.5v
I unplugged the alarm plug and for whatever reason the fryer has not gone into trouble since.
I havent checked it in the past hour, which I will be going back in 2 hours to look again. Just had to step out of the building.
This make sense?
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 7:15 pm
I just re-read my post. So let me clarify:
I unplugged the sensor connection and put my volt meter from the ignitor wire which connects to the sensor port, and checked the voltage to the module. It was reading 2.5v and then went into alarm when it hit 3.5v
I then turned off the machine, replugged in the ignitor wire to the sensor port and then unplugged the alarm wire.
Fired up the machine and it no longer went into alarm while I was there for approx 5min.
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 8:44 pm
That's not a fix.
Go back and reconnect the alarm. All you did was cut off the communication from the ignition module to the temp control panel to indicate that there's a problem.
THERE IS AN ISSUE with either the creation of a proper flame at the burner OR the flame sensing circuit.
There are too many details about what to check and why you should check it for me to go into it here. Mostly about reading flame current. I'm simply not going to give day long lessons here.
You must know and understand that fryer, gas controls and the fryer's circuit configuration to properly troubleshoot it.
The best I can do is to link you to a Frymaster Technical Reference Manual. However, I can't find any on the internet, so I've attached a 2004 version. It says it's for H50 & 52 fryers, but it all works the same.
Beware: Just like the service manual – it gets complicated due to all the variables of that fryer's design.
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 8:47 pm
By the way. DON'T attempt voltage readings of the flame sensing circuit. That might damage the ignition module.
Proper readings are done using the micro-amp (μA) setting of your meter…if it's capable of doing so. Not all meters CAN. THAT test determines whether there's proper flame rectification to prove flame by the ignition module.
That module in your picture requires 0.7μA within five seconds to prove flame.
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 8:53 pm
VOLTAGE reading should be done in parallel.
AMPERAGE readings are done in series.
MemberFebruary 21, 2020 at 10:03 pm
I went over with him and checked the signal coming back from the flame circuit, it was 2.2.
Alarm wire was plugged back in and it seemed to work fine, I'm wondering if that flame sensor wire was loose or the connection was corroded.
MemberFebruary 22, 2020 at 2:08 am
Ah! 2.2 what?
MemberFebruary 22, 2020 at 7:20 am
That very well could be the case. The terminals on those white wires connected to the igniters get HOT. They do get oxidized over time.
If I see that, those hi-temp wire terminals are the first things I'll replace.
OH, and YES….2.2 (what?). Please speak with a unit of measure that you're referring.
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