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Frymaster FPH155-SD wont stay lit
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Just as a side note, I always thought the point about connectors loosing connection due to corosion or whatever was total BS. I have tried cleaning connectors for years and it never resolved anything.
Well now I see that it is true, and that was the issue (hopefully).
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I always thought the point about connectors loosing connection due to corosion or whatever was total BS.
I can’t understand your thinking on THAT one. Corroded or loose connections are the two greatest cause of equipment failure.
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On that note, I’m really becoming weary of having to go back to edit my posts to remove all the </div><div></div> things.
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Sorry, I assumed we knew we were talking micro amps due to having spoken about it briefly before, my mistake.
The machine requires minimally 1.5 MA and it was 2.2 MA so I’m thinking the ignition board is bad, like what Nafets is saying.
What’s your take on it Ectofix and Fixbear?
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Well, issue started up again.
I am going to replace the module on the fryer, as it is getting the correct micro amps per the manual.
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So…you read and consistent 2.2 micro-amps ON BOTH SIDES?
Before replacing the ignition module, I suggest:
Replacing the hi-temp wire terminals with new, clean ones. Remove and inspect the igniters. They fail W-A-Y faster than a module. For that matter, I usually replace those if I see ANY issues with them. Issues such as corrosion, oxidation, loose electrodes in their insulators. ALSO – one-half of the two flame circuits are through GROUND. Make sure all ground connections between the ignition module and the frypot are good, clean & tight. Use some new screws when re-installing the igniters since those screws are your ground connection between the igniter body and the frypot.-
There’s only one burner on this, at least from what I saw. One ignition module, one spark wire.
2.2 MA coming back, stable at the time.
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Sorry, wrong thread, this has nothing to do with this.
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Ya…and you beat me there, too!
You said there pretty much what I was going to.
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Like olivero said there is one burner, this is a single “batch” fryer.
2.2 micro-amps consistently, flame is there, but the module goes into trouble.
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Per your model number, that single fryer is a H55 series.
There is a left and a right-hand IR burner. There’s an igniter for each burner. The ignition module you shared a picture of is a TWO channel. If you look at it, there’s a SPARK 1 and a SPARK 2. At the top of the module is a SENSE 1 and a SENSE 2.Open the door and look behind the blower motor and the drain valve handle. THERE you’ll find the second, left-hand igniter. You need to check its connections and read its flame current just like you did on the right-hand one.
Here’s a picture of a naked frypot:
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>I looked at the pilot light and it lights up (blue) without issue then just turns off and goes into trouble.
What Frymaster controller has a blue pilot lamp, and a “trouble” lamp? Maaaybe one of the old analog ones?
And if it’s true it has just one burner, it’s like he has one of Frymaster’s *pasta cookers* with the one undermount IR burner.
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First, where do you find this stuff?!?!
Second, I will check it today.
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<div>First, where do you find this stuff?!?!</div>
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Oh…I just make it up as I go…
</div><div>
</div>
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</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div>!!!
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Is someone preventing you from spilling your secrets of where you find all this stuff?
By changing it to </div><div>?
Conspicuous.
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LOL!
No. The picture is one I got off the internet and I used paint for the arrows and text. Did that before I left for work this morning. Took about ten minutes.
Just so you two understand, I know these fryers VERY well. I even wrote an in-house technical reference manual on them for the guys at work some years ago. One without all the “fudge” – so dumbed down to our needs. We have over forty of those fryers at our properties.
For instance: I knew right away from the model number he gave (FPH155SD) that it has:
A SINGLE H55 high-efficiency gas fryer. So…Frymaster’s classic, thirty year old design that heats using two infrared burners – one on each side that are mirror images of each other. A design that once used two separate ignition modules. One for each burner. In the early 2000s, they went to a single, two-channel module in place of two seperate modules. All high-efficiency fryers made since then (except for ones made for McDonalds) use the two-channel module. A Footprint Pro filter system. I’d venture a guess that it has a spreader cabinet to accommodate the width of the filter system underneath…and to provide a dumping station next to the fryer. Probably has a heat lamp mounted above that. Because that fryer has a filter system, there’s a drain safety switch to disable the heat circuit when the drain valve is opened. That’s also a source for nuisance service calls because, unless the drain valve handle is FULLY closed, the unit won’t heat and will display HELP. That fryer LACKS a computer, so it probably uses an analog temp controller. The one which has a knob to adjust temperature. It has stainless steel doors, bezel, ledge and flue riser, but is cabinet sides are painted instead of being stainless too (stainless steel cabinet would be a different model number).
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Well, damn.
All correct except for the heat lamp. You happen to have a copy of that reference manual?
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You happen to have a copy of that reference manual?
Is this fryer the only Frymaster product you have?
If you have any others, can you provide the model numbers?
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This is the only Frymaster product I have.
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So I checked the fryer and both flames were lit. I replaced the module and so far no issue, the chef made some fries which were good.
Will check back tomorrow to ensure no further issues.
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More than likely then, you had a bad connection. It not common for a ignition module to go on one channel. I would guess that 80 % are replaced when they are not the problem. But getting techs to understand the system and fully trouble shoot it is. I’m going to piss some guys off with this next comment, but here it goes. Most of the techs out there are parts changers. Not troubleshooters. To be the latter, one has to study and understand the system they are working on completely. Take the time, even if it’s your own, to learn all about what you are about to fix. .We are in a great time to do this as we have a lot of resources available from the internet. Not like what I had to do 40-50 years ago.. Take the time. You will see the benifit latter.
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Most of the techs out there are parts changers. Not troubleshooters. To be the latter, one has to study and understand the system they are working on completely.
ABSOLUTELY!
There’s another forum I drop by occasionally called Appliantology.org. It focused on household appliances. I’m a fan of the couple that runs the site. I’ve watched the webinars and listened to podcasts that are FREE. They offer training courses too (which I’d LOVE to take), but they’re too pricey for ME to get into since I think I’ve got this stuff nailed down for MY purposes and probably wouldn’t get much EXTRA stuff out it. They created the course to focus on the TECHNOLOGY of appliances rather than teaching each manufacturer’s appliances.
The closest thing there is ON-LINE to provide such training on COMMERCIAL EQUIPMENT is Ignitor Labs. However, I’m not sure whether they cover CFESA level stuff anymore (haven’t checked them in awhile).ANYWAY…in his blogs and media, he often refers to PCMs.
PCMs? What is THAT?
It’s a comical reference to parts changers, but HIS name for them is Parts Changing Monkeys (PCMs).
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Both burner’s flames SHOULD light simultaneously since they’re both supplied gas and ignited simultaneously. AND…they’ll both go OUT simultaneously if there’s a lockout condition due to ignition failure.
However, since each of the two burners have their own, separate igniter/flame sensor electrodes – EACH burner’s flame circuit needs to be inspected and tested. Despite the 2.2μA reading on the RIGHT burner, if there’s a flame sensing issue with the LEFT burner that’s causing flame current to drop out, then the module locks out BOTH burners…obviously.
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So today, the fryer is still working like a champ. I will check at the end of the night to confirm it is still good.
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So to wake a thread that I thought was dead….zombie thread.
The fryer starting acting up again. Three solid days of no issue and now it is back to going into ignition failure. But what is odd, is that it is hit and miss on whether or not it will go into trouble.
Example, this morning I just changed the outlet (there is two separate outlets on the back wall) and the machine ran all afternoon. Thought maybe something got into the outlet. Then this evening checking it again and it was in trouble.
I checked micro amps on both burners and it was 2.2
And I checked each valve connection and each was the same on both sides of the module.
I replace the ground connection which attaches from the board (not module) to the cabinet as it was bent and I figured that might be the issue. Again the fryer worked for approx 1 hour then started having trouble again.
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If the module is seeing the correct flame sensing current on both burners without fluctuation but still shutting down you haven’t watched it long enough. Your either having a fuel or air problem that is changing as it runs or a intermittent connection of the flame sense circuit. Or a electrical connection to the control circuit. Not seeing it makes me have a disadvantage. Are the flame sensors and igniter clean? Are they mounted tightly and clean? Is the ground wire tight and clean? Both ends?
Are you certain it is a flame alarm? Not say a high limit. Or posibly a gas valve vent plugged and the flame dropping below normal levels. Check the gas valve vent hole.
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