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hobart c44a dish washer
ny ideas to deal with the warping ?
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9 Replies
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What is warping?
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The tank
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I believe that because of the tank being warped it’s causing two issues one then tell her running on the inside and only have one tiny little spot right where it’s worked and then it’ sealing up is also an issue. From what looks like two places the sealand possible the tank. This is now the third seal I’ve put in and second impreller. Do to the guy. That was helping me thought it would be a good idea to use a half in impact on the impeller nut. The first original impeller never unscrewed from the shaft section and blades. But when he did that it made part of the impeller end up looking like it was a washer right behind the nut. So I found a used motor and impeller. When I recieved it it showed signs of needing a seal. I went back to Hobart picking up the third seal and when I disappointed from the motor that’s when that one then tell her in the shaft came apart just like it’s designed to it’s threaded internally or whatever but when I was reassembling I wasn’t sure about how much I needed to crank down on that nut to the impeller the one little bit of information I found said it’s okay to hand tighten it which just didn’t seem like that was going to be enough so I didn’t slightly more than hand tightening I used to just regular 3/8 ratchet just put a little attention on it but doesn’t need to be torqued down to make it seal right there at the seal because the other question was on that the ceramic part of the seal one side of it had a ridge and one of it was perfectly smooth which side goes towards the other part of the seal as far as I knew it was a smooth side which is a side it’s on it but I’m still leaking
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I apologize for the long post but also this is not my first pump seal that I’ve done I’ve done plenty of times on fire pumps on dishwasher pumps however dishwasher pumps but I’ve never had this being issue where it’s now three seals and it’s still not sealing
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It’s important that the bore the ceramic with a neopreme outside is clean and a film of food grade grease applied to it. also it has to go in square and even pressure to not crack it. then the shaft has to be clean and no groove or etching fo5r chemicals. Lubricate the inside of the carbon spring seal to help it seal to the shaft. They have to be spotless when assembled, as if any particle is on the face’s it will not seal and not come out. Again a thin film of lubricant on the face helps with seat in. Make sure to check the motor bearings to be smooth. Screw the impellor on by holding the motor fan and tightly. Then you put on the lock nut or bolt depending on design.
Now tank warping, that is usually alignment or structural damage to the machine. Rubber hose from the tank or direct clamping to the pump? Check the drain plumbing to not be stressing it.
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yeah I made sure it was clean used lube on cermic side but not ont the other what is the chance of knocking the spring side out with out damaging i had cleaned the shaft before installing with 3m pad to make it smooth the seat
Im pretty sure I cleaned as well like Ive said Ive changed out plenty of seals in my day on spas dish mach pool pumps I just dont understand why Im having such problems on this one when I got the replacement impeller I did get a motor with it it might not be a bad ideato try with putting that one in with a new seal -
one other thing the impeller on both motors was the same design it slips over the shaft and has a collar with two allen screws that hold the impller in place and also holds the right clearance of the impller but there iss a nut that hold the center part of the of the impeller that hilds the blades tto the shaft has a nut on the end that is what im not sure about how much that needs to be tightened becaasue I can see that if it wasnt tightened down enough it could leak there making it apper that it is the seal. this is also what I believe happened to the first impleer the guy that was helping me decided to tighten it down with a half inch impact cracking it
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hit send to early there is a 3 –4 in rubber hose from the pump to the pipe
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The spring loaded carbon/graphite seal seals on the shaft behind the impeller. The ceramic seal has a cup shaped rubber with sealing grooves that seals to the housing bore. Everything forward of the carbon shaft seal can leak. It has no function sealing the pump. The most common problem is the stationary seal is not fully seated and square to the shaft. That’s critical. The shaft seal has flex to accommodate the spring pushing it back. Kind of like a bellows inside the spring. Motor shaft being bent or out of center will take out a seal in about a month. Recommend placing a dial indicator on it to check for run out.
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