MemberJanuary 9, 2021 at 2:23 pm
My Lincoln Impinger 1301 oven is not reaching to high temperature , stops at 200 degrees. I recently changed 208v to 240v heating element. Do somebody know how I could fix my problem ?
MemberJanuary 9, 2021 at 5:36 pm
The first thing I always do to those countertop ovens is clean out all of the tubing to the air switch. It looks like this:
MemberJanuary 9, 2021 at 5:49 pm
Several questions first.
What did you do to change the oven from a 1301 to a 1302. It takes much more than just a new element.
What is the serial number. There has been several changes over the years.
Did you install a new seal when changing the element.
And do you have a digital DVOM that can read millivolts. And a digital thermometer that is accurate.
The service and parts manual is here. Note that the wiring diagrams vary with serial number as well as some component’s. Also you will need the Thermocouple chart on page 51
Hopefully you rewired the 3 points inside the control box to 240 before energizing the unit. Otherwise you may have damaged the timer, transformer and/or temp controller.
MemberJanuary 9, 2021 at 7:20 pm
I literally just changed the heating element from 208 to 240v
MemberJanuary 9, 2021 at 7:28 pm
The serial number is below the one they show in the manual
MemberJanuary 10, 2021 at 9:14 am
Why was it changed, did you move location or was the site it is on have a electrical grid change?
MemberJanuary 10, 2021 at 3:36 pm
I changed because the previous one explode. The tech who came told me that if it burn its because it was not the good heating element for the electrical output that I have in my building. So he told me that we just need to upgrade the element. First , He was about to do the job but it took to long for him to bring me the part. So I decide to do it myself thinking that I just had to change the element. Do you know what could be the issue ?
MemberJanuary 11, 2021 at 6:44 am
Did he measure the supply voltage?
MemberJanuary 11, 2021 at 9:01 am
I ask that as there are different voltage taps inside the control box for the supply power. One is on the low voltage transformer, one is on the timer, and one is on the electronic temperature control. All are supposed to be checked at commissioning or site change commissioning.
I’m surprised that you went from a 208 to a 240 instead of a 220. You have dropped the capacity to heat of the machine. By the way, what color band was on the old heater just below the connector. 208 would have been Red. The one you put in would be Blue if 240V
Every time you open the back you have to replace the seal gasket. Just inside the back at the bottom left and right are two spring looking things that hold the long “J” thermocouple. If not correctly placed the thermocouple can touch the heating coil. This will make the controller think the air is hot and stop adding heat prematurely. That one possibility.
But the correct way to find and eliminate your problem is with a DVOM and accurate thermometer. One would test for power to and from the air pressure switch, The temp control, and the contactor. Resistance of the Temperature Set
Potentiometer. And a millivolt test of the thermistor.
Like Ectofix said, start with the air switch. Then you narrow it down temp control. From their you determine if its the pot, thermistor or board itself.
MemberJanuary 14, 2021 at 8:08 am
Well done fixbear. Excellent questions being asked and really need to know the actual supply voltage.
Voltage – amperage- air flow (finger assemblies in place properly) – all critical to make it work
Really need to know serial number to know if there is an air pressure switch in the unit.
Does the red indicator light stay on when it reached 200 degrees? If the light goes out the air switch is cylcing the oven for you not the controls.
Lincoln support line is 1 844 724 2273
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