-
Magnet Replacement on Ice Damper
Has anyone changed out the magnet on the ice damper on a Manitowoc U0310? Purchased the magnet and cap, thinking the old one would just slide out once the cap was off, but not having any luck getting the cap off.
-
19 Replies
-
Your missing some letters in your model number. But I believe you probably have the tilt harvest Damper with the magnet on the right side glued in. Never seen a bad one. Surprised that you even got it as it’s not in the parts book separate from the damper.
Now the reed switch is a different thing. It’s used to indicate a full bin. Normally one sees a problem with it not coming back all the way. Usually just a cleaning problem. Like we always say, clean with Manitowoc cleaner before starting repairs. Usually it solves the problem 80% of the time.
If you need directions on proper cleaning, page 33 in this manual.
-
I forgot to mention that the reed switch is easily tested Watch the membrane pad bin full light as you tilt the ice damper. Tipped it will light and back it will go out.
-
Oh yea, make sure the machine is level front to back.
-
-
Why would you change the magnet?
Did it stop being magnetic?
Sure it’s not the reed switch? I’ve seen those go bad before, replaced a few as well.
-
Do magnets ever stop?
Just read online, that really the only way is to have it exposed to high heat, which an ice machine is the opposite. And have a magnetic field overwhelm it, which you would be having issues with your electronics if that happened. So magnet is not the issue.
-
-
The problem is, the damper, on occasion will not return to the closed position. When it remains open, all it takes is a little tap on the machine and it will close. Cleaned and sanitized the machine recently, but still continues to stay open on occasion. So my thinking was maybe the magnet is getting weak??
-
Inspect the 2 pivot pins to be in position and free. Make sure it’s level. Not by eye, but with a level.
It returns by gravity to the back side. If you touch it in the front, it should immediately return to the run position without and resistance. Sometimes in the manufacturing process there is little edges from the mold. If it’s hanging remove it and check the sides for that. Of course one could always add some weight to the back underside with epoxy. But I didn’t tell you that.
-
-
Also something to look for is scale on the pivot points, perhaps there is a build up occurring that cannot be easily seen which is inhibiting free movement of the part.
-
Part of the cleaning cycle is to remove the unit and clean it. Sometimes people forget the ends and the pin mounts pivots.
-
I should expand on that. These under-counters are hard to see in due to the lack of light. I generally will use a head lamp on them.
-
-
-
I’ve noticed now that the trough is filled to overflowing. I think the water isn’t allowing the damper to close?? Should the trough be full?
-
Should only come up fill up to the electrodes that sense the water, or float. if it’s filling past that check allthe conductors for continuity of good then you can jump it out to see if the board recognizes the circuit.
Verify your water pressure as well.
-
-
Mwells00 replied:
Cleaned and sanitized the machine recently, but still continues to stay open on occasion. So my thinking was maybe the magnet is getting weak??
Based on @Mwells00 ‘s prior statement, I just HAVE to say this…
In case you haven’t figured it out yet, that magnet has nothing to do with “pulling” the curtain shut. A level installation of the ice machine and gravity does that.
The magnet merely serves to make a Reed switch change state to let its controls know the ice has dropped.
-
OK, what I found (after pulling the floats and checking) is that, there is a constant drip into the trough. Is the water valve something that can be replaced (easily), or even available? Model# UD0310A
Ser# 310331621
-
Depends on you definition of easy is. Because of it’s location one has to disconnect and empty the machine and pull it out. Then remove the cabinet and bin, air filter, and control box. Lot’s of fun. Not for the light of heart.
-
-
-
The water inlet valve is an easy part to replace. You need a part # 040003579 for a 120 vac machine or apart # 040003580 for a 240 vac machine. Both valves are in stock at Parts Town. Good luck.
-
If you have water overflowing the pan it creates a large drop in ice production. For every pound of water that is going in (a pint) at say 60 degrees F it takes 60 BTU’s to lower it to 32F. Now it takes another 144 BTU’s to remove the latent heat of solidification. Add that the dripping water is melting and ice in the bin.
With today’s high efficiency machines being designed so close to a minimum energy usage. They have no capacity to compensate.
But, water will not normally prevent the ice bin sensor plate from coming back to level. Check the water trough mounts to be OK. I’ve seen a few broken from aggressive use of the scoop. Makes the water flow over the right side.
Log in to reply.