market forge tilt skillet

[fixbear]

How about a model number for us.

[Irishman]

40P-STGL
sorry I meant to include that.

[fixbear]

Is the Fenwal module getting 120VAC from the temp board. It’s wired in parallel to the light. If the light is lit, the safeties are closed. Does the gas valve ohm out ok? I’m not a fan of the push connectors on that Honeywell valve. But you can find the wiring in this manual.

Make sure to check the voltage from the white to black. Not Ground. The terminal strip has 4 white wires in the end terminal that supply the negative leg to both the valve and Fenwal. The black comes from the temp control board NO terminal. On the Fenwal plug, you have a white, then a blank, then the black, another white, a red that supplys the gas valve and last a ground for sensing.

[ectofix]

<div>red light on circuit board comes on rite after start up.</div>

<div>^^^THAT should be in quotation marks but this platform is as screwy as EVER!^^^
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How long does the light stay lit?

Is it like just a flicker or does it remain on the whole time it should be calling for heat?

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[Irishman]

the light on exterior comes on for just a few seconds and goes out. then the light on the board comes on and unit does nothing. no try for spark on pilot. nothing…I plan on returning later as they are busy in the kitchen until 2pm. will ohm out gas valve and see what I get.

[ectofix]

That light on the console should remain ON whenever there’s a call for heat. I don’t know about the light located on the board, but it’s probably the same. If necessary, you should call Market Forge for clarification about that LED on the board.

Nonetheless, the console light NOT remaining on is evidence that the temperature board isn’t sustaining 120v output to the ignition control module. So, your problem is in the temp control circuit. Could be a bad board ($$$).

FWIW: The most common problems I’ve addressed on those skillets have been:

1. Temp control potentiometer failure or getting whacked by users.

2. Temp sensing thermocouple or/and hi-limit wiring failure.

The latter is DEFINITELY most prevalent due to those component’s location mounted to the underside of the skillet – encased in a metal cover that’s surrounded by flames. Refer to the manual fixbear posted. The cover is item 8 on page 8.

Eventually the insulation of the hi-limit wiring and the thermocouple leads breaks down due to the intense heat surrounding that cover.

I suggest you do a visual inspection of that setup by laying your head down under the middle of the skillet (skillet DOWN), shine a flashlight up inside that cover and inspect the condition of those components/wiring. If you see any bare wire strands, make arrangements to replace ALL of it – the thermocouple, the hi-limit and the wiring for the hi-limit. THAT’S a PITA, but it will be necessary.

OH…I almost forgot. For the wires to the hi-limit, ONLY use type MG wire. It’s expensive, but that’s the only wire type that can take the heat. 14 AWG will suffice.

[Irishman]

thanks, we have updated temp sensing wire and high limit wires in the past year. initial problem was high limit failed and as you mentioned. those wires were in bad shape and were updated with OEM parts at that time. maybe 12 months back. I have tested and power is making it through the limit and returning back. now, I’m trying to identify what this new issue is. as you said also. the control is a very expensive part. hate to do a trial and error on that and determine exactly what the problem is. seems crazy all this experience and at a dead end. I have looked for Market Forge tech support number. all I find are sales and voicemails with no return calls….this one beating me up. I truly appreciate all the help so far. we are on same page. guess I’ll keep trying to find a tech support number.

[techtownmayor]

I’m not sure if it is of any help, but I have this number listed for their tech support:

Technican Service:
Help Line: (919)-762-1000 Option 2

Good luck with this one, sounds like it is a real challenge, and thanks to everyone for helping out!

[fixbear]

For the wires to the hi-limit, ONLY use type MG wire. It’s expensive, but that’s the only wire type that can take the heat.

You also want to use High temp terminals and a good crimper. Otherwise the heat will oxidize the connections.

The biggest thing with those units is the temp control wiring and sensing. If the light for heat is flickering or goes out, Either the high temp sensor wiring/connections, the pot is intermittent, or the temp sensor have a problem. You can measure line voltage at the temp board to determine if the high limit is the problem. And you can ohm out the temp control from the same location to narrow it down.

[olivero]

Sounds like it might be a thermostat issue.

I’ve seen that with SGL tilt skillets from Cleveland, if the light is not remaining lit, it’s not trying to heat up.

I’ve also had a bad ground right at the burner, the wire was practically melted off and so wouldn’t light despite the call for heat.

Found it on accident as my hand snagged the wire and broke it off, repaired it and it worked again.