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  • Older 60" Garland, looking for help with ID

     fixbear updated 1 week ago 2 Members · 8 Posts
  • Mat

    June 26, 2020 at 8:03 pm

    I’m fixing up this 60″ Garland range, presumably from the late 60’s or early 70’s. Does anyone recognize this model range or can help decipher this model plate?

  • fixbear

    June 27, 2020 at 7:47 am

    Intersting range, but I don’t believe it’s a Garland. Model is HH293, with 25,000 BTU ovens, 10,000 Btu Griddle, and 15,000 BTU burners.

    Can you post a picture of the door emblem. Might have a better clue from that. I take it your looking for door handles. The special insert nuts must have fallen inside the doors as I don’t see them. It also looks like it may have bottom broilers by the slide draws.

  • fixbear

    June 27, 2020 at 7:52 am

    Another big question, what type of oven safety does it use and oven temp control.

  • Mat

    June 27, 2020 at 12:17 pm

    Thanks for the info on the model plate. I got a few more pictures: thermostat, safety valve, and door emblem. I have the handles, I haven’t put them back on yet. I don’t know what parts I’ll need, but I haven’t hooked it up yet. I imagine I’ll need something once I go through it.

  • fixbear

    June 27, 2020 at 2:42 pm

    This might help you with the install;

    Now because it has a broiler and raised girdle. it will need both a hood system and fire suppression system.

    Do to the back wall having wainscoting, This isn’t a commercial kitchen. They normally have a non-combustible wall behind the range. And a non-combustible floor. Is this going into a domestic location or a non-profit?

  • fixbear

    June 27, 2020 at 2:50 pm

    On your number plate lower left corner I can’t make out the characters. Perhaps it you light at a slight angle so that it shadows the raised type.

  • Mat

    June 28, 2020 at 9:47 am

    Thanks fixbear for the manual, that will come in handy.

    It’s a domestic location. I had done a lot research and planning when deciding if this range were the right move. I have a hood with heated make up air and fire suppression. I have far more into the systems than I do the range. Wainscot and chair rail will be replaced with SS panels and a tile pad installed prior to connecting, as well as stainless tables to the left and the right of the range. It’s too damn heavy to move more than I need to, so all the work will be done at the same time.

    Another image for you. The illegible number (14500) may be the rating for the hot top?

    Any ideas on age of this thing? I got it last year from a guy who built his home kitchen around it in the mid 70s. He’d purchased it from a restaurant around that time.

  • fixbear

    June 28, 2020 at 12:51 pm

    Before you continue with this, I think you should be aware of the difference between domestic ranges and commercial. Off the top of my head this is what I have observed.

    1 Commercial have less insulation and more heat loss than domestic. That’s why they have higher BTU’s.

    2 Commercial older ranges have standing pilots. There by using a considerable amount more energy. And adding a lot of heat to a room. You won’t want that baseboard heater anymore.

    3 The commercial range has twice as many BTU’s per burner as a domestic. Making it fast and a bit more difficult to control. There will be a bit of a learning curve. Unless you have done commercial cooking.

    4 Commercial range burners are designed for larger pans than domestic’s. Generally nothing less than 12 inches to be efficient.

    5 The older raised griddle broiler do not have temp control. It’s all up to the skill of the cook to know his load and to continually monitor flame input. They are designed for hours of continuous work. Not a quick meal. Then comes the labor of griddle clean up. That depends if it’s cast iron or chrome griddle. With the age of your range, it will probably be cast iron. That means immediate cleaning and re-seasoning after every use.

    6 The commercial range ovens will come to temp much quicker than a domestic as well as recover from load change quicker. So unless you are adding a large heat sink to one of them for high moisture baking, a short preheat is all that one needs.

    7 The commercial Range makes a lot more CO and CO2 than a domestic. If you have a CO monitor in the kitchen with the older pilot ranges and the exhaust system off, you can see high levels.

    Hopefully I’ve given you some food for thought.

    BTW: your raised griddle will have a serial number plate inside behind the front face on the frame left side. Your range is a Space Saver. The ovens are 6 inches shallower than a normal one. That is why they are 25,000BTU instead or 30,000BTU

    You can put the 6 inch legs on it for the non masonry floor. They are here;

    You can also find a generic H 280 series parts manual here.

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