Rational SCCWE62G

[nafets47]

I get what you are saying. The ignitor does in fact spark, I can hear it.

Something that does not make sense to me, that I thought about while driving is that when I disconnected the original ignitor it was completely submerged in water.

This new ignitor I put in and then pulled out was wet and had a bit of debris on it. So I refilled the tank and vacuumed it out several times. Then I put the ignitor in and then pulled it out and there was nothing.

Is it supposed to be full of water? Does not make sense that gas and air would be pushed into a chamber that is full of water and still ignite.

Should I fully vac it out and leave it to dry then try again?

[ectofix]

NOPE. Water should NEVER ever be inside the combustion chamber. So your steam generator’s heat exchanger is cracked and the ONLY remedy is to replace the entire steam generator.

I’ve had to do that numerous times…and is a big reason why I hate having eleven Rational GAS units to maintain. Otherwise, ELECTRICALLY heated units are SO much simpler and cheaper to repair.

<div>Here’s the steam generator you need:</div><div>

https://www.partstown.com/rational/ratl87-01-095#id=newaddresstab

I suggest that you go ahead and remove the generator w/burner assembly attached, then – once on the bench, remove the metal-mantle burner and inspect it to make it hasn’t broken due to exposure to water/chemicals.

Here’s some literature you might want copies of. The first is a parts manual, but you probably already have that.

The second is ridiculously hard to find on Rational’s website. It’s an annual publication I use every time I research for replacement parts because…well…Rational can’t leave well enough alone. They gotta change part numbers every time make a change to their newest replacement part KIT:

https://static-pt.com/modelManual/RATL-SCCWE-61G_pm.pdf?v=1655476575405

<div>https://www.rational-online.com/media/downloads/service-part-price-list/sppl-us-2022-v18a.pdf</div><div&gt;

</div>

FWIW (HELLO TechTown!): This forum aggravates the **** out of me! Every time I post ANY link, it doubles up on what I pasted and, thus, makes it a bad link. So I have to backtrack and delete the repeat before posting a reply.

WHY?

[ectofix]

…and the “left-pointing stack overflow bracket, followed by a backslash, then ‘div’ and a right-pointing stack overflow bracket” things keep appearing no matter how many times I go back and delete them in my last link.

HELLO TECHTOWN!!!!

[ectofix]

So I can’t fix the garbled link above. Here’s copy I D/Led and posted…if THIS even works!:

sppl-us-2022-v18a.pdf 2 MB PDF - Click to view Copy Download Link

[ectofix]

I just realized I gave you some wrong info, but this BS forum platform won’t let me edit them. Here’s the correct part and the correct parts manual:

https://www.partstown.com/rational/ratl87-01-096

https://static-pt.com/modelManual/RATL-SCCWE-62G_pm.pdf?v=1655476575415

[nafets47]

Well damn.

Thanks for the data. Make sense that there was a crack. Water in combustion chamber raised a flag for me after the fact.

[nafets47]

So I replaced the steam generator. Fun cycle by the way.

Worked like a champ, making steam not giving me errors, etc.

But after I sat through 30min of the cleaning cycle last night to ensure it was all good I came in this morning and the fuse to the special transformer 40.00.279 was blown.

When I spoke with tech support some time ago they told me it was part of the safety circuit and it could be anything.

Well I replaced:

Steam generator

Iginitor

Cleanjet pump

Drain valve

Any ideas?

[ectofix]

Which fuse blew?

There are two panel-mounted fuses supplying the transformer’s primary winding, then an in-line fuse that’s part of its wiring harness for protecting the transformer from overload.

[nafets47]

The fuse that is part of the wire harness.

[ectofix]

Stefan, Rational ovens are designed to operate from European power – which is 230v. For the American market, they incorporate that special transformer in there so gas ovens can operate from 120v. That 0.8a in-line fuse protects the 230v secondary winding of that transformer in the event of a short circuit.

I can’t be much help since your culprit could be just about ANYTHING that requires 230v to operate. I don’t have 120v schematic of that oven to reference, but that oven’s predecessor had few components that actually use 120v.

SO, I suggest you begin by doing a visual of every wire, connection and component you had to work around during that generator replacement. You might have gotten some wires pinched during the installation process. Aside from that, all I can do is copy/paste what I wrote for you on that dishwasher that was blowing fuses:

The FIRST thing you should do is a VERY thorough visual inspection of all components and visible wiring. I’m sure you already know what you’re looking for.

If you find nothing burnt, chafed, deformed, gotten wet, etc. – then you can proceed by going about this in two ways:

1. Remove power from the machine, then use your ohmmeter to go through all the individual 230v circuits branches to find any unusually low resistance paths (or continuity). Do so using some logic by knowing what should get energized WHEN. So, what get energized just by turning the unit on, then what gets energized after certain processes have completed.

2. Another way to troubleshoot for a short circuit is by doing what I call “trial by fuse”. YES, you should be equipped with numerous spare fuses. THEN, disconnect ALL components, power the unit up, then CAREFULLY, slowly and meticulously reconnect stuff ONE AT A TIME…until your sacrificial fuse blows. Obviously whatever you reconnected LAST will lead you to where the short is at.

3. One other option the Rational affords you is simply replace the fuse, turn the oven on and go into function check (TECLEVEL). If the oven hasn’t yet blown the fuse, run each of the oven’s functions individually – with hopes that ONE of them blowns the fuse.

[ryantruck9]

As ectofix has mentioned it could be any of the 230V components.

Function test all your pumps and valves.

if nothing blows your .8A fuse it may be a leak causing a short.

Check the cleanjet pump for moisture or see if there is any residue under the pump.

if you have a small leak during cleaning it may take awhile for the water/grease/chemical solution to make its way to the cleanjet pump/ box

It is usually dry by the time a tech comes to troubleshoot but you may see gunk on or under the pump

Do the same for the care control pump as it probably had not been activated in the 30 min you were watching the unit

function test Y3 moistening valve for a solid 90 seconds

the hose clamp to the cavity nozzle has been a leak point and often it takes a bit of time for the leak to develop as pressure needs to build up before it starts to drip.

Your machine fills the quench box with Y3 during cleanjet

it takes a while with the small cavity orifice so you really need to function test it for well over 1 min

(previous generations filled with Y2)

good luck and stay safe!

[nafets47]

That is a good point. I did have a fleeting thought about function testing each individual piece.

I will bring up that the fuse hasnt blow at all today since I replaced it.

[ectofix]

That doesn’t mean it won’t happen again.

If that can do without it tomorrow, try checking it over with a good visual inspection and what Ryan had suggested.

If you find nothing that is suspect, then duplicate the circumstances under which the problem occurred. The problem is the fuse blew. The circumstances was that it was in a cleaning cycle.

On a side note, more than once have I gone to remedy a Rational oven problem only to have it come back at me with a multitude of others. Therefore, I’ve frequently recalled the words of Roseanne Roseannadanna (a character portrayed by the late, great Gilda Radner on SNL):

“Well, it just goes to show you, it’s always something — if it’s not one thing, it’s another.”

…or a later twist that’s even funnier:

“Well it just goes to show you, it’s always something — you either got a
toenail in your hamburger or toilet paper clinging to your shoe.”

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hYGtXIqDa0https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9hYGtXIqDa0

[nafets47]

Well it did occur again. But it doesnt happen when the oven is in normal use. Just at the end of the cleaning cycle.

Doing a rise cycle with is approx 1h 30m it blew the fuse at the end of the cycle.

Then doing a strong clean 3h 30m it blew the fuse at the end of the cycle.

The steam gen is good (just replaced), so looking at the sequence of operation it looks to me to be the care pump.

Per the manual

“Operational sequence (in general)
CleanJet:
• The unit will start with a functional self test. SC-Pump and the 3 solenoid valves (Y1-Y3-Y4) are operated for a
short time to verify the functionality.
•

Later…

The filling solenoid will fill the steam generator with fresh water up to level electrode;
• Part of the care volume inside the steam generator is now pumped off into the quenching box with the SC pump
and topped up by moistening valve Y3
• The filling solenoid will fill the steam generator with fresh water above the level electrode;
• The care volume inside the steam generator is heated to 80°C
• The Cleanjet pump M6 pumps the care volume of the quenching box through the cabinet to rinse it;
• The drain valve will open;
• The care container will be rinsed with water, at the same time the care pump will discharge the water from the
care container in to the steam generator and the SC pump will pump off the steam generator.
• The steam generator is filled, pumped off and refilled again.”

So to me it says the SC Pump is operated but not in full use and at the end of the cycle it goes into full use. So maybe that is my issue.

Like I said earlier in my post, it is always at the tale end of the cleaning cycle never at the middle or begining.

So all other pieces are used fully several times, and only at the end does the SC pump get used.

[fixbear]

Sounds like you’re on the right track. But I wonder if it is a time in the cycle that the most items are on?

[nafets47]

I was thinking the same thing. Maybe all items on are pulling too many amps.