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Refrigerator stops working temporarily
I have a 2003 Maytag double door refrigerator that uses a Tecumseh TAL3 19.5 amp compressor (R134A refrigerant). When the refrigerator is on a cooling cycle the low side pressure is 0.0 psi (normal operating psi). Sometimes though during a cooling cycle it will just stop (compressor and evap fan stop) and the low side psi (normally at 10 psi when not running) will kick up to 50 psi and will slowing drop down to around 20 psi, then the refrigerator will start up again (Compressor and evaporator fan running like normal). This “fault mode” usually takes about 30-50 minutes from stop to start again. What could be the problem??
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8 Replies
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Dirty condenser or condenser fan not moving air needed..
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Everything is clean under the fridge (condenser coils clean & condenser fan works fine)..
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It sounds like it is tripping on overload. If there is adequate cooling, then measure the amps of the compressor. If it has a solid state starter, they sometimes go bad and cause this.
BTW, Adequate cooling includes airflow both inside and outside of the machine. Cabinets can sometimes recirculate hot air. Same with decorations.
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I changed out the start relay & start capacitor with a Supco 3in1 hard start 4 years ago. Starting is not an issue. I also added a mini fan facing the back of the compressor. I have it running during the warm hours of the day. If it was tripping from overload I should hear a click and the compressor would be very warm or hot to the touch (but it is not hot at all)..
This reply was modified 3 weeks ago by steve_k.
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Then your going to need a good DVOM and check out the controller and door switches. I don’t have a wiring diagram for that machine, but understanding the how and why of the design always helps when troubleshooting. If the evaporator is freezing up it means that air is not going through it enough for the size of the refrigeration. And you stated that when you restarted it after defrost the suction line had frost. Again, indicates there is a lack of flow through the coil. I have seen multi fan evaporators that one fan is not running at speed and air just moves backward from that fan to another instead of through the coil. A lot of reach ins are difficult to see if they are fully defrosted without removing the fan case. On a thick coil there is always ice inside that is hard to defrost. This will also make a tail coil colder than normal.
It’s a two door machine, so the door switches will be in series. They can be intermittent. What condition are the door gaskets in. They will make ice fast if they leak or you put uncovered product in the cooler.
As for the Supco field repair starter, they are designed for temporary repair so you have time to get the OEM one. I’ve never had success with them long term.
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The door switches are working fine. The evaporator doesn’t seem to be freezing up. Both the Freezer & refrigerator are working normally (normal operating temperatures) before it goes into a temporary fault mode (no compressor action). I did have to put a tap and recharge the refrigerant (using Johnsons 143A refrigerant) around the same time I installed the SUPCO 3in1 hard start (I’ve heard these could last up to ten years or more btw). I believe a possibility could be that the oil in the compressor might be going bad (due to past over-heating)? Not sure though..
This reply was modified 2 weeks, 4 days ago by steve_k.
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Have to apologize, as we have two identical problem machines, but one is domestic. With domestic machines it’s a bit different. They are built to go 10 years and then they drop parts for them. It’s best with them to get hold of a service manual with all the troubleshooting codes and diagnosis.
Hope you put in R134, not R143as you stated. Heat will not bother polyoester oil much. But moisture will.
Do they have solenoid valves on your model for the freezer/refrigerator. Variable speed compressor? A likely fault may be when it does a defrost cycle, the thermistor may be having a fault from movement.
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Correct, refrigerant is R134A. I did not know the compressors used Polyester oil (Polyol Ester). Good to know. I did have to recharge the refrigerant so maybe air (and therefor a small amount of H2O) got into the line?
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