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Vacmaster VP320
So one of the chefs overfilled the oil in our VacMaste rVP320 and now it does not properly vacuum pack the bags.
It leaves oil residue in the bags and does not make a tight vacuum in the bags; items can freely move about.
I replaced the air filter which was a pain, and it looks like there was enough oil in the system that this new one is garbage. I am now just running the system over and over and wiping out the oil that is sprayed into the cab without bags put into it.
Any ideas on what to do now?
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7 Replies
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How often is it used?
Did he use the right oil? There are very finicky on oil.
If you have oil in the chamber, either the check valve is leaking or the solenoid valve. I would test the pump with a micron gauge first. Then remove and flush the lines. Often they don’t get changed enough and build up a lot of crud in the lines, valves, and pump. Especially if they have a habit of not fully cooling the product before bagging. It boils in the chamber, leaks out, and the steam contaminates the pump and oil. Especially if they have the displacement plates to high. Not sure witch version control you have. The later one has oil change intervals and number of seals done.
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It is used several times a week, depends on what is being cooked.
<div>How would you flush the lines of the pump?</div><div>
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I ended up sorting it out buy continually running it for approx 30-40min with a bunch of rags thrown into the chamber so when it sprayed oil instead of going all over the chamber it just went into the rags. Now it is working correctly.
However if it happens again it would be cool to know what to do to flush the lines of a pump, what product would you use? and how do you do it. (obviously I have never done or seen it done)
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Correction. It started spraying oil and not sealing the bags again!
So yea, any data on this flushing the pump business would be good.
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Ok, let’s look at what you have as a vacuum curcuit. It starts at the chamber wall fitting that is designed to not block if a bag gets over it and to disperse vent air to the sides. Then a vacuum grade hose to a tee. off the Tee you have a solenoid valve for venting and a check valve to prevent pump oil returning to the chamber. Then a line to the pump. Simple design, but compact internal of the mechanical section of the machine..
This is a seat of your pants solution I’ve used. Not a norm for sure.
As for a solvent to clean the line, Non volatile and food safe. You can always open it up to get to the vent solenoid. Remove all displacement plates to make as much internal area as you can. Remove the seal bar. Trickle your solvent into the vent solenoid as it opens. Now vacuum the tank wall fitting with a small wet vac to remove and left over solvent. Optionally you could use low pressure (30 psi) regulated air to push the solvent through the vent line and tank line. If the check valve was working, oil will never get to the chamber. Using the air method requires you to change the oil again.
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Something is in your check valve or the seat got damaged. Multiple oil changes are the only solution to pump cleaning. I accidentally sucked a bit of glycol from a beer line chiller evaporator once. It took 9 changes to get that vacuum pump back to a serviceable mode.
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Change it,. run it till it’s hot with a bleed slightly open. Repeat.
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Even if the pump oil leaks back unless the pump is low on oil or broke a vane, it should seal. Unless the seal bar is not rising. The control cycle is vacuum till seal is done and a hold till seal cools. Then vent. The cycle time governs the vacuum. Your gauge should be going to 28 to 30 during the cycle. Less than 25 inches the seal bar will not function correctly. A cracked lid or bad cover gasket will prevent sealing as well. Additionally if they have had mutable spills in the machine, the seal bar pistons get gummed up. Common if the product isn’t fully cooled before bagging.
Your usage is minor. I have a VP112 that regularly do sessions of 20 to 24 items every time I make a stock.
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