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Viking VGIC306, Infrared burner replacement
Hey Guys,
Anybody every worked on a VGIC306 Viking range?
I know it’s more residential but still, got some questions if you have.
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15 Replies
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No, I haven’t. But after looking at the parts breakdown of the IR burner (pg 9), it looks fairly simple.
http://allvikingparts.com/v/vspfiles/downloadables/VGIC306_1.pdf
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What is it doing that it needs replacement? Cracked?
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BTW; This range has a recall for automatically turning on unattended. Seems that liquid from spills or cleaning gets into the controller.
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The user can hear it spark at the top infrared burner but there’s no flame, then they reset it and it turns on, so it sounds like an igniter or a gas valve problem.
I was hoping someone could give me a step by step procedure on how to replace these components since It’s kind of hard to tell by the parts manual.
The burner doesen’t need replaced, I wrote that wrong.
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It’s irrelevant, as the controller is no longer available. let alone that some company’s wanted $700 for it.
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What is irrelevant?
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@fixbear is saying that if the module (pn PA020056) is the problem, then all research about it on the internet states that it’s discontinued.
I found some stuff on Appliantology.org indicating that there was a replacement retrofit kit (pn 027348-000), but THAT now appears to be discontinued as well. So, if the ignition control is the problem, there is no replacement.
I ‘d call their supplier to confirm:
888.988.4546
support@allvikingparts.com -
I don’t need the ignition controller, we’re replacing the igniter for the top burner in the oven cavity, the salamander, it’s an infrared burner.
Do you have any experience with that?
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Not on a residential Viking, so…no.
If that IR burner is in an oven, then it’s the BROILER burner inside an oven.
Salamanders are broilers too, but are stand-alone, high heat output broilers with a single adjustable shelf through an externally operated locking handle.
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The user can hear it spark at the top infrared burner but there’s no flame, then they reset it and it turns on, so it sounds like an igniter or a gas valve problem.
I was hoping someone could give me a step by step procedure on how to replace these components since It’s kind of hard to tell by the parts manual.
I’m sure the ignition control and solenoid valves are accessible through the back. Of course, before condemning the module, first trouble to determine that it’s the problem.
From what I’ve seen (on the internet), That module is a TRUE two-channel DSI. In other words, it requires TWO control inputs. One for BAKE and the other for BROIL. Otherwise, all the two-channel modules we see on commercial appliances simply light up two burners simultaneously from a single control input (Vulcan SG [Snorkel] ovens, Frymaster Pasta Cookers, etc.).
<div>So you said it’s sparking at the IR burner but not lighting until it’s reset. That tells me the module is getting a call for heat but has flame control issues:</div><div>
Are they sure that the IR burner doesn’t light at ALL? It might be lighting but then going out after failure to prove flame (I’m thinking that’s a single trial module). In such a case, it might just be an oxidized flame sensing electrode. If that’s NOT the case, then confirm that the solenoid valve for the IR burner is getting PROPER & consistent voltage (devoid of any dropped voltage due to faulty relay contacts in the ignition module). If the voltage is fine, then maybe a gas supply issue, either from a pressure problem, an intermittent solenoid valve or maybe a partially clogged burner orifice.</div>
Those are just some of my ideas.
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I read that you think its not the controller, but if you need to get something like that repaired in the future, I found this company.
https://www.industrialrepairstore.com/
Had a Rober Shaw control board in a Garland master series convection that was bad and replacements are not available and the conversion kit they made is also out of production but they were able to repair the original one.
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I think that Ectofix has good idea on this. The electrode is about 9 inches long and has to come through two layers of steel and insulation. It looks like a ceramic faced IR unit. And if the face gets splatter on it in the area of the electrode I doubt it would be able to sense flame. But remember, being on the recall list there may be other options. like a free or adjusted new one due to no available replacement parts.
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