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  • ectofix

    Member
    September 22, 2016 at 7:30 pm

    Art, it’s NOT always the thermopile.  Some visual inspecting and use of some test equipment is in order here.

     

    What’s the general condition of the hi-limit’s bulb & capillary routed up there inside the fryvat?  If it looks banged about and abused, replace it.  It’s been compromised and may have leaked a little of the gas in it that makes it work.  I must point out that a hi-limit is designed to FAIL SAFE.  In other words, if its functional element (the gas charge) escapes, then it fails OPEN.  A v-e-r-y small leak is a hint of that feature, by it tripping at lower temperatures than it’s designed to.

     

    Is the hi-limit bulb mounted properly?  That’s VERY important.  If it’s not and has nestle its way directly up against a burner tube, then it’s merely doing its job – SENSING an overheat condition.

     

    Otherwise…

     

    With regards the 200-250ish degree temps you stated, what tests have you performed?  Is the temperature you said it heats to –

    the SET POINT of the operating thermostat? or the ACTUAL temperature?

     

    You need be monitoring the ACTUAL temperature with a quality pyrometer/digital thermometer and, when the pilot goes out prematurely, check that hi-limit with a voltmeter.

     

    If the hi-limit tests as open at a temp well below its designed trip point (450°F), then the hi-limit needs to be replaced.  If that’s the case – and the sensing bulb/capillary doesn’t appear compromised, then I suggest replacing the operating thermostat too.  The operating thermostat is a mechanical device and wears out over time.  It might be sticking occasionally and causing an overheat condition – thereby giving the hi-limit (also a mechanical device) a work out to the point that its gotten weak and has failed.

     

    I also advise that you check your electrical connections.  ANY poor connection in a 750mV circuit (what the thermopile generates) is a weak point in the circuit.  750mV voltage isn’t enough potential to punch its way through a bad connection.

     

    If you’ve done these things (connections are good, bulb/capillary is good and hi-limit not testing as open, other strategic voltage test points show as good), THEN you can suspect the gas valve as the culprit.