Antunes VCT LO & HI Diagnostics 

If you need to conduct Antunes VCT LO & HI diagnostics quickly to get to the root of the problem, use our guide to give you the right step-by-step instructions for a job well done. We want to ensure you can safely and efficiently diagnose the issue and either repair it or give advice on the next steps.

Antunes VCT LO Diagnostics

• If the VCT2000 is flashing low after 30 minutes, unscrew the black cap on the back side of the unit.
• There will be either a button behind it. Press it and you should feel a light click to reset.
• Once you feel the click, reinstall the cap.
• Then check the high limit. If it was reset but didn't take care of the problem, check the voltage.
• Turn the voltmeter to volts AC and check from the white wire on the turbo block.
• Go inside the terminal and check both sides.
• Look for a difference of 208 or 230 on this side. If you have zero, it means there’s zero difference of potential, which means there’s no problem.
• Check your voltage coming in, then you check your voltage going out.
• Voltage coming into the unit would be around 230 and going out would be zero if the relay was stuck open.
• This would give you your low after 30 minutes. Low is normal for up to 30 minutes because it has to heat up the temperature. If it's after 30 minutes, the relay or your high limit may be stuck.

Antunes VCT HI Diagnostics

Overcooked or Burnt Product

• If the relay is stuck closed, turn the unit on, then turn the amp meter on the multimeter to check the amperage.
• If you get about 10 amps, remove the ground wire or the negative wire off of the relay. This should cause an amperage drop.
• If there’s still amperage being drawn from the circuit, shut it off and reconnect the wires and disconnect the multimeter.
• This means the relay is stuck closed and will need to be replaced.
• When replacing the wires, do one wire at a time because this unit has a positive terminal and a negative terminal. If you get these reversed, it won't work.
• These wires are set up for a certain distance, so you want to make sure you keep in the right position.
• If there’s still a high flashing high on the display and it's still burning the buns, it could mean there’s a problem with either the thermocouple for the platin and the auxiliary being reversed. 
• If you look at the board, it's going to say platin right next to the connector up and then it's going to say auxiliary or J2.
• If these are reversed, it's going to sense the temperature of the wrong area. So, this thermocouple, we're going to track it back up all the way up to the connection at the platin. Check that to make sure it's in the right place. Also, measure it to see if it's got a proper resistance value.
• Go back to the base of the wire and check it for resistance.
• Put the multimeter on ohms, which is the upside down horseshoe.
• On the thermocouple, the yellow wire is the positive wire and the red wires are negative.
• Look for the backside for the grooves and put the test leads there to test it for resistance.
• If it has very low resistance, there might actually be a problem with the thermocouple because it's shorted.
• You should see between 2 and 10 ohms of resistance at room temperature.
• Anything above room temperature, at about 100°, you'll see roughly 1 ohm for every 10°. 
• Make sure it’s the correct wire going to the clad. If it was reversed, you'd be reading the thermocouple wire that’s going to the auxiliary heaters.
• Those only get up to 400° as the maximum temperature. So if it's reading 400°, that's going to send that signal down to the board and it's going to trigger the wrong relay to heat because it's thinking the platin is at 400°.
• Plug the wiring back in. If you found that faulty, replace your thermocouple.
• If the BCT 2000 is flashing high, but it's not toasting the buns, it could be a disconnected thermocouple or it might be a thermocouple that is open. So you’ll need to check these for resistance.
• It should show O when it has an open circuit. Check your ends. The red wire is the black terminal and the yellow wire is the red one. If you get an O reading, that is showing you the thermocouple is open.
• If it’s open, you would have to replace that thermocouple.
• If it's disconnected or dislodged, then you would just reinstall it.