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Hobart 2812 Sometimes spinning backwards
Posted by guest on September 17, 2018 at 12:00 am Hey I have a Hobart slicer model 2812 which is  Sometimes spinning backwards , I did not see the issue myself I ran it a few times and I do not see it spinning backwards the only thing I tested is the capacitor and I found that it is dead can that be a cause of why sometimes it’s running backwards or is there anything else I can check? it is a regular 110v unit.
fixbear replied 5 years, 7 months ago 1 Member · 27 Replies -
27 Replies
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I don’t know what you mean by finding the capacitor to be dead. What did your test of it indicate?
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I tested the µF . And tested 0 , suppose to be 189-227Â
i installed a new one and hoping that solves the issue!
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First I have to know what type of case the capacitor has. Black plastic or metal. Second, how did you test it and what did you use.
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If a split phase or capacitor start motor, it very well can run backward with a bad cap or start switch. If a PSC motor, not likely.
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It’s a black round plastic start capacitor , I have A DVM UEi dl429, that u can test µF.
So I think this slicer has a split phase motor but how does  A bad cap make it spin backwards?
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Ok, check the centrifugal start switch. Often they get spark burns or wear from the armiture and out of adjustment. It is closed for starting.. Unfortunately I don’t think you can buy Flexstones or point files anymore. So a dollar bill and a little fine abrasive compound is about the best you can do at cleaning them
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It’s THIS:
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Hobart part number 00-070487-00026Â
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Sound like you got it, eritech1.
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The only other component to affect the motor start would be the electronic start switch:
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Hobart part number 00-271612-00002Â
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Both of those are a PITA to get to to functionally test, so I’d replace BOTH while you’re in there.
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Here’s Hobart’s latest manual (2017):
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I’ve never taken any of the motors apart in OUR 2812s, but I don’t think they have a centrifugal switch in them. They’re probably an solid state version of start relays for common refrigeration compressors.
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Hearing about single-phase induction motors running BACKWARDS has always been a mystery to me. I’ve worked on MANY motor-driven units, but have never seen it myself. Therefore I can only suspect the start components as being the culprit.
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I can’t tell if that is a current or a potential relay.. But if potential, it has to be indexed dead level to work correctly. I still have a problem with how you tested the cap. You can only test one and measure the micro-farads with a dedicated capacitor tester. And they are not cheap. Hell, I don ‘t even own one. I can check if a capacitor works, but I can not measure how many uf it is capable of. That requires a very specialized machine/ instrument. You can test with a Ohm meter if the capacitor works, but not it’s value. First you must discharge it for both safety and test reasons. Then connect a analog ohm meter and watch the needle. It will sweep from 0 to infinity. now reverse the leads and it will do it again
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To actually measure the capacitor requires a programed power input supply, and a measured load output. Handheld DVOM’s can not achieve this requirement.
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Naa, it’s a solid state switch. I’ve let the magic smoke out of a few over the years…
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And most good meters these days will do temperature, frequency, and micro farads. Even my little one does DC clamp measurements. Cool stuff…
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