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knife and plate fitment issues in large hobart 4256 and 4356 meat grinders
I’ve been tasked with getting these machines up and running after some parts were removed, they use #32 plates and knives. The issue is the studs on the auger tips- one machine is 1/2″ and the other is just a little over 7/16″. I see most plates have 1/2″ center stud holes which actually measure larger than 1/2″ which would allow the auger on the unit with a 7/16 stud to contact the inside of the machine, which is a no go. Also the #32 knives are so tall that when installed that they do not allow me get the plate seated fully in the end of the machine, so of course tightening the front sleeve nut would put pressure on the knife. I checked and factory hobart knives are 5/8″ tall, which is what I have but the stack height of the plate and knife is 1/4″ too far out. I’m puzzled by the 7/16 stud on the one machine, is the actual standard for #32 plates for a 1/2″ hole or what, and what is the correct standard height for the knife?
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7 Replies
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Hobart makes there dies and knifes so that you have to use there’s. You’ll also find that the head hub is not a standard 32. And if it is a older model grinder, you will not find replacement parts. Aftermarket will not fit correctly. Plain and simple. I have in the past remachined a aftermarket head hub to fit a Hobart due to this problem.
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Great to know, I just spent some more time out there and can make this work by machining a 1/4″ thick HDPE spacer to fit under the big lock ring so there is enough clearance for the knife and making a bushing for the stud. After that standard parts will fit in the future and no modifications to the machine. I could take 1/4″ off of the back of the auger but prefer to not modify the machine.
Thanks
Tom
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It’s not uncommon to find a head/auger that is worn and the auger clearance get’s to great so that the meat heats and tears. or won’t feed correctly. The ridges in the housing and the leading edge of the auger have to be sharp for correct feeding. Especially if the meat isn’t cold enough. The auger should have a lubricated bearing washer (usually micarta on older machines) on it and the plate nut is adjusted by tension to provide the correct blade tension. If overtightened it will overload the blade and size plate. And make excessive load and heat. To little tension will push meat around the plate.
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I think I’ll put the spacer under the nose instead where it attaches to the hopper, then the plate will at least be properly seated inside the nose. Where does this micarta bearing washer you mentioned go, at the back of the auger or at the nose? The factory manuals do not show a washer; I was wondering how proper clearance could be obtained without either a spacer under the nut or washer at the rear of the auger. Seems like untrained personnel could screw things up pretty easily without a guidance on how to properly adjust the nut tension unless I set this up so even if very tight the knife won’t bind. a soft neoprene rubber washer at the back of the auger under slight compression with the nut fully tightened would be a good way to to be sure there was never too much pressure on the knife, no?
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There should be nothing on the auger front but the knife and the plate. The plate can not seat without tension on the knife to successfully cut meat clean. The ring nut or hammer nut depending on machine is just lightly snugged against the plate/knife. Often the plate is dressed on a surface or Blanchard grinder to flatten, sharpen the corners, and make true. You usually only take it down .003 to .005 inches. When the hand nut bottoms before tension on the plate/knife it has to be replaced. Knifes can be sharpened with a trued plate and fine grinding compound. Unless they have no relief. Then replacement is required.Â
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Since this latest reply and a link regarding SURVIVAL KNIVES has absolutely nothing to do with a thread about the Hobart Meat Grinder question…and the issue was probably resolved nearly two years ago, I think that our newest member (wishtorr) is SPAMMING us.
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