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3D Printing Parts
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Alrighty, time for an update.
My printer has been running pretty much non stop since I got it and I’ve gone through so, SO many versions of this PEG and it seems like I’m getting places.
Hands down, the material is ridiculously strong, I mean it’s absolutely crazy, I don’t think anything short of a hammer and a vice would snap the head off it, so that’s good.
Running into some issues getting it to snap on properly, been playing around with a lot of different concept, it can definetley flex, it’s just a matter of finding a balance between too much flex and not enough as well as strength overall.
It’s starting to go in the direction of needing channel lock pliers to snap on the peg and for some reason, one end of it always breaks but the other end does not, so I’m working it out but it seems it might work out in the end.
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Curious what you are using to design the part? Was it an easy process to replicate the original part into a 3D model? Did you have to make any changes to the part to help it print successfully? Thanks so much for all the updates, this is very interesting!
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Have you measured with a vernier the inside diameter of each side. Is the lower side a bit smaller from droop? Sometimes precise areas are made with extra material to be machined off later for precision.
What really concerns me is that it may be to strong and if something gets caught wrong instead of breaking it may damage the flight rods, chain or drive.
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Scott,
I’m using Sketchup PRO right now, I was using Blender but never got into 3D printing with it. I learned to 3D model in sketchup originally for space renderings and such so I just kind of stuck with that. I’ve made a few changes to make it stronger where the original always fails, at the base of the peg that rises upwards, hopefully this will make them last longer.
Fixbear,
Yes, I measure the original ones and that’ s what I started out with, an exact replica of the original and then altered it from there.
It’s a valid concern you are voicing, I hadn’t really given too much thought to it, the original pegs are darn near impossible to get off and when brand new, they come with 2 pieces that go across the bottom to prevent it from coming out, so if I can get my version to be as difficult as theirs, that’s kind of what I’m going for.
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Yes, but are you measuring yours after build and cooling. I’ve seen were the weight in the build as it gets taller makes the bottom mushroom a small bit. To the point that a commercial machine has vortex coolers to dissipate the heat quicker from the build.
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Yes, once it’s cold and been sitting for a while.
It doesen’t seem to shrink much, might be off by 0.002 MM or so.
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I have successfully printed parts to repair an microwave interlock. I have found that annealing the finished product gave it quite a boost in strength. PLA anneals nicely with minimal shrinkage, haven’t tried PETG yet as I am still dialing it in. As far as I know part of the “food safe” issue is due to the micro fractures as part of the FDM process giving places for bacteria to hide and not get cleaned out easy, like a heavily scored cutting board.
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Very true, the main concern is those “grooves” from the seams where the layers are made, but considering it;s a dishwasher, I’m doubting it’ll matter too much but we’ll see what ends up happening.
Happy to know others are using it in this industry as well for the same reason I am, we’ll definetley find a good use for ours even if the pegs don’t work out in the end.
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Just wondering as to what position you are printing the object?
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On it’s side, laying down.
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do you use any support?
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Yes, the software I use to slice it and prep it for the printer automatically builts it in where it’s deemed needed.
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Well, after a lot of testing and prototyping. PETG does not hold up in the temperature. It simply warps when in the heat so it won’t work.
Now we’ll test Nylon.
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Thanks for keeping us updated, despite your setback, it is very interesting to read your experiences.
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Yeah, I’m sure someone will benefit one day.
Nylon is WAAAAAY flexible, it’s crazy. So it doesen’t work that well either, it holds up to the temp just fine but it gets really flexible when it gets wet.
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Is there a tempering process that can be appied to printed parts?
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I believe so, not sure if it works on Nylon though,
I believe there is for other plastics.
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If you have an oven with an accurate thermostat, you can harden many printer materials on a pizza stone. Problem is, you usually need to be accurate to +/- 5 degrees….
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Interesting. What would I gain from it, make it harder to break?
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Definitely. Essentially you are melting the slices together, turning it into a more solid part. Your biggest issue will be shrinkage, so you may need to make a part, heat it, then take measurements to adjust the design.
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Interesting, good to know.
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Annealing is the keyword for this rabbit hole.
With PLA I was seeing about 2-4% dimensional shrinkage with a increase of tensile strength in the realm of 35%. I was clamping the part to a table and using a force gauge with a maximum function to find the shear strength.
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Very interesting, I’ve heard it from a co-worker as well who has annealed some of his parts.
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Okay, here’s the next version. Printed with Colorfabb HT, heat deflection temp of 100*C
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