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  • Frymaster built in filter

    Posted by marketingtomaintenance on December 6, 2020 at 3:42 pm

    Has anyone had any experience with Frymasters built in filter system struggling to pump up oil? The o-rings are new and it happens most often on the 3rd, last, fryer during the filtering process.

    The pump runs and there is air bubbles coming up in the oil but the fill rate is horrendous, and if there isn’t someone smart around I can see staff buring the pump motor up by letting it run continuously until it finally fills the fryer.

    marketingtomaintenance replied 3 years, 4 months ago 7 Members · 28 Replies
  • 28 Replies
  • fixbear

    Member
    December 6, 2020 at 7:12 pm

    You have a air leak on the suction between the pump and tank. Finding it is the challenge. Usually “O” rings or fitting alignment. But I have seen the tube in the bottom of the tank have a obstruction. Carbonized oil.

  • fixbear

    Member
    December 6, 2020 at 7:14 pm

    model is always helpful.

  • ectofix

    Member
    December 7, 2020 at 12:43 am

    <div>it happens most often on the 3rd, last, fryer during the filtering process.
    </div>

    With it being the last fryer in the filtering process, perhaps the filter paper has too much on it already.

    Have you tried changing the paper to see if oil return improves for that “last” fryer?

    <div></div>
    </div><div>

    I’ve always recommended changing the paper for each fryer vat.

    </div>

  • marketingtomaintenance

    Member
    December 7, 2020 at 12:06 pm

    Trying that today, didn’t think of that until later last night. Did notice there seems to be an increased amount of crumb build up on the filter paper so hopefully that is it.

  • fixbear

    Member
    December 7, 2020 at 12:35 pm

    What and how much do they fry?

    • marketingtomaintenance

      Member
      December 7, 2020 at 5:38 pm

      Its a QSR, fries, cheese curds, o-rings, chicken strips

  • olivero

    Member
    December 7, 2020 at 1:34 pm

    I’ve had what Fixbear mentioned, same symptomps but turned out to be carbonized oil in the filter tube in the bottom, had to drill it out and then weld the tube back shut.

    Spent forever messing with O-rings and alignment, leveling, etc. told them to change the paper frequently and so on, never resolved it, drilling out the carbon block of oil did it.

    • fixbear

      Member
      December 7, 2020 at 2:12 pm

      But like Ectofix said, it’s only the third tank. Kind of rules out the blocked filter channel on the bottom. That would cause problems with all three.

      • olivero

        Member
        December 7, 2020 at 2:16 pm

        True, but I’m just saying what happened to me.

        1st one was faster, 2nd one slower and the last one was very slow, granted they were all slower than they used to be, but still, the last one seemed to be “the problem” I took apart all the piping to it to find the obstruction as I was led down the same path.

  • fixbear

    Member
    December 9, 2020 at 11:59 am

    marketingtomaintenace, How did you make out? We are all interested in what was the final determination on this.

    • marketingtomaintenance

      Member
      December 9, 2020 at 12:45 pm

      Tried o-rings again which didn’t work. Tried swapping out the paper on the last fryer and that didn’t work. Strange enough it happened on the first and last vat the other day and last night it didn’t happen at all. I’m going to have to try and explain this to someone at Frymaster and see if they have any ideas because it’s to random to narrow down.

      • ectofix

        Member
        December 9, 2020 at 7:20 pm

        With you not providing a model number, I’ll have to make some assumptions as to what fryer you have:

        I’ll assume your fryer model is not part of the LOV, OCF
        or FilterQuick model families. I’ll also assume that your fryers aren’t more than
        fifteen years old. Fryers that old would have model numbers beginning with a FP
        or FM (just THAT, then followed by numbers). Since you don’t work at a McDonalds (they don’t serve
        cheese curds or o rings), there’s a good chance that your model number
        doesn’t start with a BI.

        Therefore, with yours being fryers less than fifteen
        years old, non-McDonalds…and lacking all that fancy oil
        conserving, auto-filtering and disposal technology, I”ll ASSUME that the
        first THREE digits in your model numbers are FPP or FMP
        (and THEN some numbers).

        ALSO, it’d be nice to know if your fryer is connected to an RTI system. RTI is an ADD-ON made by Restaurant Technologies Incorporate, which allows you to dispose of oil without using a disposal caddy or to physically add oil by pouring new oil in from a JIB (Jug In a Box). RTI system failures can have a huge impact on Frymaster’s factory installed filtration system setup.

        Meanwhile, I’ll just ASSUME that you don’t have an RTI system.

        ***************************************

        All of that just because I must guess at what I THINK you have.

        If my ASSUMPTIONS are true, then your filter system appears to be just a basic one they designed fifteen years ago and still use to this day. It’s latest of MANY of their filtration system designs where you manually operate it using a drain and oil return lever located behind the doors.

        Given the intermittent nature of your problem, along with its randomness (not focused on a particular vat), I think the issue is restricted to the plumbing immediately to/from the pump…up until it connects to the oil return manifold in the back of the fryer…or there-about.

        Short of there being some form of blockage taking on different forms to randomly restrict flow (I’ve only ever seen that once) or an intermittent air leak on the suction side of the pump (never seen that), I’d be taking a look at the solenoid valves in the system.

        There are TWO solenoid valves in Frymaster’s filter system…

        One can be seen when you pull the filter pan out and
        follow the line back from the pan’s pickup tube coupling (to the right of
        the pump). The OTHER is in a horrible location to the LEFT of the pump, which is difficult to see and way worse to get
        to. It’s in the back and happens to be where the white-ish
        Teflon tubing goes to (the other end is connected up front to the DRAIN
        manifold).

        If either of those valves stick OPEN (intermittently?), then that would affect oil flow back to a given frypot (intermittently).

        Instead of me writing out how those solenoid valves play a part in the filter system, I’ll simply post some graphics I put together some years ago regarding the purpose of their existence in Frymaster’s design.

        Take note that the little schematic in the second graphic is my REVISED version of what’s shown in some of Frymaster’s S&P manuals – since what they put in their manuals is WRONG.

        I’ll try to post my graphics in the next posts since there’s a glitch in getting this long response to post successfully.

        ***************************************

        With my not being there to put eyes on your problem, this the best I can offer you.

      • ectofix

        Member
        December 9, 2020 at 7:23 pm

        3 of 5 pages.

        5 1 6 1 7 1
        • marketingtomaintenance

          Member
          December 12, 2020 at 3:33 pm

          Looking at the 7-1, would it be possible for that solenoid that controls the air inlet to get stuck open and introduce air to the returning oil without the pump sending oil out of the air inlet? If so, it seems like that could be the issue, is there a way to test if it is getting stuck open or do we just replace it and find out that way?

      • ectofix

        Member
        December 9, 2020 at 7:24 pm

        The last two…

        8 1 9 1
  • MOOSE

    Member
    December 11, 2020 at 5:35 pm

    if it’s the fryers I’m thinking of, there’s some street 90°s at the bottom rear of the pot where the oil returns after filtering. They get blocked up quite a bit if filtering is done incorrectly. If you eventually get no oil and the pump kicks out on on overload it will be those plugged street 90s. If you get less oil in the pots that are used more frequently that could be a sign this may be your issue. it’s not fun and time consuming good luck ✌🏼

  • marketingtomaintenance

    Member
    December 12, 2020 at 2:57 pm

    It has been a hell of a week, and I haven’t gotten a chance to look at the latest replies, but the model number is FPGL330CA

    It does have the option for bulk disposal, which is not in use, but the auto top off is used. I do believe it is also one of the OCF models

    • ectofix

      Member
      December 14, 2020 at 2:22 am

      WELP…EXPLETIVES!

      I worked for an hour on a well thought out reply, but hit a button this forum didn’t agree with and ALL of it friggin’ disappeared!

      I’ll try again tomorrow maybe. I’m going back to my show on Netflix for now.

      • fixbear

        Member
        December 14, 2020 at 8:52 am

        Had that happen a few times. It’s blooming frustrating. Took Scotts team quite a while to find it. Seems that somehow the system classed me as a spammer. You might want to check with them.

        • ectofix

          Member
          December 15, 2020 at 2:31 am

          Yes, I’ve experienced that too. Such was not the case last night, though. I had simply *clicked* my mouse in the wrong context (a link I’d made) and the whole content of my post went to the link I was sharing. I hit my BACK button and everything was GONE.

          Thankfully I had composed MOST of what I wanted to say in WORD…and had saved it.

          So I’m posting that NOW.

  • fixbear

    Member
    December 13, 2020 at 6:05 pm

    model number is FPGL330CA

    Thank you, that helps us to understand it better. In case you don’t have the manual for it, You can find it here;

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