new install jackson conserver xl dishwasher not reaching min temp 140F

[ectofix]

Since that machine has no way to heat the water, it solely relies on incoming water temperature.

 

You’re apparently loosing heat of the water through the pipes delivering it from the water heater to the machine.  The further away those two are apart, the greater amount of heat loss.

 

Options:

Turn the water heater up higher. If the plumbing is accessible, see about insulating the hot water line its entire length. Add a point-of-use water heating source nearer to the dish machine that’s in line with your main hot water supply.

 

Now, about the options:

For options #1 & #2, be aware that any idle time of the dish washer also allows heated water to set in the pipes.  Therefore, there will ALWAYS be cooled water coming to the machine (well below your desired minimum) during the first one or two cycles of the machine.  Afterwards, as long as the machine is in continuous use, the water in the lines will be hotter. For greater water temp control, I advise option #3.  I suggest getting a booster heater installed.  They can heat the incoming water VERY rapidly, which will ensure you’re always up to health codes.  The downside is that they’re expensive as an initial investment (compared to a basic water heater) and would require an upgrade of electrical service to wherever you install it.

[olivero]

I would advise getting a booster heater, its really the only safe way to keep your water temp high in this case, since it already can’t keep up, you might make it to 140 with insulating pipes or increasing the water heaters set point but if you get a booster, you will be set.

 

Hatco makes some really good ones.

[fixbear]

The Conservers have no heat. The rating plate of 120F is a minimum input water temperature for the machine to clean. You can raise your input as much to as much 180F if facets are safe from scalding. But, water temp at the machine can not be below code. This is why a booster works well with them.

 

There is another option to keeping the water line hot. Grundflos sells a instant hot water option kit for your hot water heater. It consists of a bronze circulator with timer and a temp valve that gets placed at the farthest sink or perhaps your prewash sink. The valve is temperature sensing and allows water to return on the cold line till it reaches the set point. Usually 120 degrees. It then shuts off till temp drops and starts to flow the return again. It is a modulating valve, so no one notices a flow differential.. Like showers.

   I have a service club with large hall that the water heater was 80 ft from the dishwasher, and required them to run a facet for 10 minuets before filling the dishwasher for the tank to be 140. It was a effective solution to a existing building. Guest also noticed the improvement in the restrooms.

   Second option is to install a mixing valve on the hot water source and raise it to 180. run a line direct to warewasher with a circulator and small diameter return line. This is how most commercial buildings do hot water due to distance.

   Only you can cost out your options in your area, good luck.

[olivero]

Yup, those are other options.

 

Really depends on your budget, Hatco’s boosters are electric so you have to get an electrician to put it in and it gets expensive.

[itisljc]

We run into this problem frequently.

We are able to resolve it by installing a space saver water tank into the 120 degree hot water  supply under the dish tabling next to the dishwasher. about 3 hour install. This will get the wash water up to proper wash temp. 120 volt supply up to 150 degrees – low profile  available at Canadian tire or other box store building center reasonable prices.

 

My clients are billed for the cost in the hundreds not the thousands.

 The Hadco boosters lime up like crazy unless treated. Unless treated water is used.

 

good luck

[ectofix]

Not Hadco.  It’s Hatco.