Lincoln 1300 Impinger not getting hot enough.

[olivero]

Well, if you suspect the element, ohm it out and call tech support, ask them what the ohms are supposed to be.

 

Does it ever stop heating or it just won’t reach temp despite trying?

[fixbear]

Check your programming on the ETC. That board has to be calibrated after install. Do you have a good temperature test instrument to set it. Lincoln has a very specific probe placement for calibration. The top pot is the only one you want to touch.

 

Also check the air pressure switch. Remember that different serial numbers are wired different.

[ectofix]

jseigfreid wrote:

 

How do I test to see if it is the element?  I do not have a spare element to test in the rebuild.

Jay

With an ammeter.  Always use an ammeter to monitor amp draw of the elements.  The ammeter will reveal to you what you should check next.

[jseigfreid]

Have never done a calibration on the ETC.  Have read the service manual.  Am not sure what the top pot is.  there are two blue boxes that will calibrate, are you talking about the top blue box?

[ectofix]

If the ETC checked good in another oven…and the temp probe is good, then there’s another issue.  As olivero questioned, “Does it ever stop heating or it just won’t reach temp despite trying?”  That’s the true question.  Is it a heat source issue?  A control issue?  A sensing issue?

 

Changing parts from here to there is REALLY a wrong way for troubleshooting.  Put a multimeter to use.  That’s what they’re for.

 

I know you’re not a tech, but you’re trying to bring these old ovens back to life…for resale maybe?  I don’t know.  You implied that in another thread.  You’re learning in the process.  I get that. 

 

If your meter doesn’t have an amp clamp, then buy one that does and use it.  A voltmeter, ohmmeter and ammeter (oh…and a digital thermometer) each have their place.  Using them in concert with the other (along with the service manual and knowledge of the unit’s sequence of operation) will give you answers down to the EXACT problem.

[olivero]

Good to see you back here again Ectofix.

 

HE can also ohm out the element if he doesen’t have an amp meter, I agree he should get one but he could see if the element is bad simply by ohming it out and comparing it to factory spec.

 

When I doubt an element, I normally check amps on it but will regardless of the result, ohm it out to make sure its all good. 

[fixbear]

Let’s see if I can verbalize how to check your heating element. Assuming this machine is a single phase unit with double pole contractor, Gain assess to the heating contractor. With a voltmeter set to AC, test the output voltage. Should be line voltage across the two poles. (some models use a single pole contractor)  With a clamp on ammeter, check the amp draw on each leg. They should be equal and the rating for your heater. They used several, so color  would help.  A 5800 watt 208 volt heater should be about 28 amps. If that checks out ok, your heater is good. If not, you now have to disconnect the heater from power and go to your ohm meter. Test the two terminals for continuity and ohm value. will probably be single digits. Now test each leg to ground to make sure it isn’t shorted. Test to ground (or mounting housing) should be open (infinity on the meter)

 

If we have a model and serial number, it would help a lot.  You say you have the repair manual, so it gives you the thermocouple values to test it. You stated that it will heat to 375, So you should test this, as you wouldn’t get that hot unless there was heat. Does the heat light remain on or cut off at that temp?

[jseigfreid]

Ohms on the rebuild and working oven test at 10.  The oven never stops calling for heat.

[jseigfreid]

Please the above reply with pics of the interior of the control compartment, picture of the serial # plate, and what I have done so far.  Test to ground is open.  

[jseigfreid]

Thanks to everyone for the replies.  All this is extremely helpful.  Even though I have the service manual, with all of the schematics, the testing instruction are, at times, a little confusing.  I can trace all of the wires and connections to the proper place, disassemble and reassemble following the schematics — and taking lots of pictures.  Testing the components is my weak point, but I am learning.

 

I know trading components back and forth is less than stellar, however, as I am learning it has helped me check values to see if they are the same in both ovens.  I have an ohmmeter, ammeter, and voltmeter but not a digital thermometer — I am using an oven thermometer.

The oven SN 07221000552.  It does not have a pressure switch (Lincoln part #369430)