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36CGM16300 Steamer tripping GFCI & condensate spray problems.
Had a bit of an adventure today with my 2 compartment steamer.
It was continuously tripping the GFCI outlet whenever the bottom compartment would be energized, but even then, it would do it randomly.
So I chased my tail for some hours, replaced the main switch for the compartment, tried ohming stuff out and it just wasn’t making much sense.
So I started disconnecting components and narrowed it down to the condensate spray solenoid valve. Turns out the coil had cracked or ruptured, whatever you want to call it.
That then caused it to short to the body which in turn shorted it out and tripped the GFCI, so I figured that out, replaced the coil (had one laying around) and voila.
Then as I start to walk away I think, Hmm, I should verify there’s water on the outlet side, make sure it works and there wasn’t, so I replace the whole valve (had one laying around) and now it’s spraying out the outlet side.
So I go to hook it back up thinking it’s over, I can move on in life but no, I hook it back up, energize it and I’m wondering why I don’t FEEL water running through the hose into the drain and as I’m standing there wondering I hear
*POP* like someone popped champagne and there’s a miniature geyser over by the filter, the cap on the top had blown off and the filter got shot off, no idea why, no idea how but it happened.
so I fix it up and then I’m thinking, what could be wrong here, so obviously this thing is piped into the drain directly on the outside of the cabinet and getting to it, I have maybe 1.5′ or so of space between the back of the compartment and the exhaust so I have to remove this tiny fitting set in fiberglass insulation and get it out with mini wrenches.
So I do that and I find it’s completely and utterly calcified, there was simply no way for the water to get through, it was like a solid block of calcium.
Pull it out and get it cleaned up and now it works just fine.
But here’s the question, have you guys seen anything like this? How could it possible build up so much calcium? How did no one notice this feature wasn’t working anymore? It’s supposed to spray cold water into the drain to draw the steam to it, so what happens if it doesn’t? I don’t see any major difference, what’s it supposed to do?
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16 Replies
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But here’s the question, have you guys seen anything like this?
Yes
How could it possible build up so much calcium?
Hard water evaporating due to heat. Ice machines build up calcium too. It just takes longer.
How did no one notice this feature wasn’t working anymore? It’s supposed to spray cold water into the drain to draw the steam to it, so what happens if it doesn’t?
The first indicator would be wafting, heavy clouds of steam coming out of the drain pipe, which will condense onto other surfaces such as the hood, nearby equipment…or even the steamer itself if it was improperly installed above the floor drain.
To prevent those wafting clouds of steam. If the condensate system (sometimes called “quench” system) is working properly, there will be little to NO steam exiting the drain pipe. To prevent any pressure buildup within the cooking compartment of atmospheric (pressureless) steamers. Combi-ovens are included, too. If there is even the slightest pressure buildup, opening the compartment door will, in some units, come blasting open from a torrent of pressurized steam. That’s sort of a hazard for employees.I don’t see any major difference, what’s it supposed to do?
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Also remember that steam is not always visible. It will displace Oxygen and make breathing a problem. It’s even used as a fire extinguisher. So it the quantity coming out the drain is high, it’s a real problem that no one notices.
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Also, steam is considered by many as the most powerful force on earth. Think volcano s. Mega tons of force.
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Very interesting, when they first started using the unit, the steam would come out of the drain and rise up under it, since it’s placed over a floor drain.
I then ended up modifying the drain line and fabricating a grate cover so that the steam couldn’t get under the unit and near the electronics like that.
I had no idea it wasn’t supposed to do that, now both the top and bottom work after clearing them out, so hopefully they stay working.
I don’t think it would pressurize the chamber since the drain line was still open, it was just the condensate spray which was blocked, so in theory the steam would just be pushed out of the drain, I would think.
Thanks for the feedback.
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If the condenser is working as it should, there should be very little steam. How is the water pressure, temperature (should be cold) ans spray nozzle. It should be acting a bit like a venturi.
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Your mineral build-up in the drain is a sure indication of inadequate cooling flow. With a higher water flow the cooling water will not separate out as drastically and flush the minerals away. The fact that they are building up means that the cooling water is also turning to steam.
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Okay, currently there’s not a lot of steam, we cleaned the injection nozzles out so they are spraying properly.
IT’s cold water, about 70* or so, pressure is fairly high at between 60-100 PSI going to the nozzle, our building pressure is fairly high.
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I see a weak point in this system. They use a hollow cone nozzle for the condenser. Being so small and built like it is, doesn’t take much to block a portion of the cone. Like even new construction particles in the hose.
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I don’t see were they control the steam input volume other than the 8psi. So the only balance is between the boiler pressure, piping resistance and the water regulator and nozzle
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It’s a very small orifice, I’m sure it didn’t take a lot and from what I remember, it’s been gushing steam out the drain since forever, so it’s probably been blocked since they started using it.
The steam input is 5-15 PSI but the condenser nozzle is a direct feed off of the supply line, no PRV no nothing, just a hose up to the solenoid valve and then into the injector.
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I believe the the boiler setting is 8 psi. Now the water pressure setting, I can’t seem to find. They kind of skip over that in the service manual. But the hollow cone shape of liquid is hard to maintain over time. Nozzle wear and abrasion will change it. Let alone pressure. It will be a balance of steam and water that makes it work correctly.
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That sounds about right from what I see.
The nozzle has a small orifice, so I’m sure it’ll get messed up over time but that’s just the nature of the beast I guess.
Another problem now is the lights, the on switch has a light which seems to be on sometimes and off at other times, then the low water light is acting oddly as well, on when it’s full then comes off.
So there’s still some stuff to look into.
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mineral build up on the probes?
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