LXIH HOBART DISHWASHER

[ectofix]

I don’t have a service manual to translate.  Only a Hobart tech would have one.  However, we service several of these regularly.  Whenever an “E” code (like your E6) displays, it always relates to a water level sensor probe malfunction.

 

There are three of them in that machine.  A single probe is up front in the pump sump next to the wash tank thermistor, then there’s a dual water level probe up higher and at the right-rear of the wash tub.

 

To know which one is acting up, you’d need to access the control board to observe the LEDs while tricking the door switch to sense the door is closed, then let it fill while watching the LEDs.  They should illuminate in sequence with the water level.

 

Without doing all that, what I recommend is that you get a Scotchbrite pad and give all three probes a good scrubbing.  The metal rods need to be shiny.  Also chean up the insulators some too.

 

If that doesn’t do it, replace the probe that’s deemed to be faulty.

[fastchuck]

Thanks for the info , Would you know how to read or check those sensors? Chuckster

[ectofix]

I’ve gone to the trouble of observing the LEDs on the board like I’d explained earlier.  In doing so, I’d witnessed a LED illuminate before water level had reached it – thus revealing the problem.  In such a case, if cleaning it didn’t work, I’d deem the suspect water probe to be “fouled” (my description) and simply replaced it.

Sorta the same approach I’d learned years ago from trying to reconcile issues with Manitowoc ice machine thickness controls.  I had many of those go afoul by sensing water when they shouldn’t.  Normally an attempt to clean them yielded no results, so I replaced them.

In weighing the cost difference between laboring over attempts to clean & revive an old sensor (which often DIDN’T help) – versus – the cost of a new one…was a push.  In the end, replacing the probe had a 100% success rate.

Anyway, I RARELY tell anyone in this forum to outright replace a said part, but that’s my suggestion.

So…I suggest replacing the rear water level probe.  FWIW: I’ve never had to replace the front probe to resolve an issue (yet).

Hobart 00-329274 PROBE, TANK WIRE | Parts Town 

 

BY THE WAY:

Something else came to mind that you should look for on that LXiH machine.  This requires pulling the machine out from wherever it is in order to look at the rear of the machine.  If you’ve taken note of the dual probe that I’d previously mentioned…and its location, then this should be easy.

When looking from behind the machine, there are water hoses routed ABOVE the dual probe’s wiring & Molex connector.  Those hoses converge at a vacuum breaker several feet above the wiring.  Water flows through that vacuum breaker during the FILL and FINAL RINSE cycles.

Over time, the seals in the vacuum breaker deteriorate and it will leak.  The leaking water will run down onto the water probe’s wiring and into the Molex connector.  That water can cause a false water level reading by the probe set.  Hence…an error code.

So…something else to look for.

[ectofix]

By the way:

 

You’d be much better off buying the part from your local Hobart distributor. Hobart doesn’t normally sell parts at a wholesale or discounted price to competing parts vendors.  Therefore, competitors have to mark their price up for a profit.  After all – business is business.

 

I initially thought that PartsTOWN was an exception to that practice when they first started selling Hobart parts last year.  I’d actually done some comparisons back then and was surprised to find that PartsTOWN’s prices matched Hobart’s at that time.

However, something has changed since then.

 

Here’s a link for price and availability of that same part from the Hobart SmartParts website:

SearchPage – Hobart eCommerce 

 

Sorry PartsTOWN…

Kick me out if you need to.  I really don’t care…

[fixbear]

Ohhhhh, sounds like a 6 beer night to me.. I respect the truth.  and agree.

[john]

I neither confirm nor refute your words about Hobart playing ball. We expect that consumers will shop around for the best price and availability. The truth is, sometimes we don’t beat others on price. I feel that oftentimes we do, especially considering shipping speed versus cost of downtime.

 

You may yet find that some Hobart parts match or best the prices direct from the manufacturer. Some may not. 

 

I’ve said before, the purpose of this space isn’t to make a person buy from Parts Town. I still won’t allow competitor website links here, but I will allow manufacturer ones like the one above. 

 

I’d be lying if I said I’d buy the same OEM part for that price difference if the availability was the same, and I’m not going to lie. 

 

I will refute one thing: you do care a little. Come now ectofix, fixbear, we like having you around just as much as you like being around. Day in and day out, I see your responses. You thought a bunch about fastchuck‘s issue, just as one example. To be honest, I am glad you care. 

 

Happy Friday folks!

[fixbear]

I can’t speak for ectofix, but I do it to share what I have learned over the years to help new techs (and it seems users) to learn from our experiences and become better techs. I have seen way to many inadequate or partial repairs over the years. And have had to follow on many that actually condemned equipment because they didn’t know how to fix it. Or miss-wired there work.

[ectofix]

That was a few beers back, but you’re very observant.  So…I’ve taped the cam on my laptop and lowered my window shades.