sunfire commercial stove/oven pilot wont light

[fixbear]

Get out your DVOM and watch the input to the BASO ignition control.  Your saying it doesn’t light, but are you saying the pilot doesn’t light or the main burner?  If you have spark at the pilot, and gas it will light. It may not stay lit, but it will light.  Depending on what you see, You may not have spark all the time. The high voltage wire to the pilot can degrade over time from the heat and vibration.  But without monitoring the voltage till it happens,  One never knows for sure.   Check your valve wiring to make sure they didn’t get flipped in the change out

[duster]

Here is where I am at with this SDG1 oven: new pilot and flame sensor, valve was replaced with a confirmed working valve from the bottom unit, checked wired correctly,  110 volts at door switch and at oven switch, Baso spark unit delivers 24 volts of spark when it is working all seems good but its intermittent. I took off the power line to the Baso ignitor and put a new end on it thinking it was a short. It seems to work fine then hits temp, cycles off and sometimes reignites and sometimes not. No voltage to Baso when it doesn’t ignites but jiggle the wires and the unit and sometimes it works. I don’t want to replace the Baso unit because it works fine when it works?

Pilot, flame sensor,  and gas valve all work. Ground wire clean. Seems to be a wiring issue? I am out of solutions!

[fixbear]

Ok, so your loosing the 24 volt to the ignition module. Now see if it repeats at the transformer. If it lights when you wiggle wires, sounds like a loose connection somewhere. Make sure to check the 15 pin molnex plug

[fixbear]

Pay special attention to the Klixon flame roll-out just in front of the ignition module. It that is opening, check the exhaust flue for obstruction

[duster]

Everything else checks out fine. I can light the pilot line by manually lighting it with a sparker and main burners fire. Once it hits temp and shuts off, it won’t relit. No spark at pilot. I jumpered the pilot spark line from the oven below and manually turned both ovens on and lots of spark and ignition. I think its time to replace the Baso ignitor because I can’t get consistent spark at top oven? 

[fixbear]

Yea, some times the porcelain gets a coating of carbon on it that bleeds off the spark voltage instead of jumping the gap.

[olivero]

Make sure your distance the spark and flame rod correctly. on Vulcan units, it can be really finnicky in terms of lighting and relighting if the spark is just a hair too far away or a hair too close.

I’ve had it work just fine after replacing the igniter, then come in the next day and it doesen’t work, then I adjust the distance on the sparker and it works just fine for a looooong time.

[fixbear]

That’s because of the thin ass insulation on the ignition wire. The only reason it can even spark that distance is because of the gas rich environment. If the valve is late opening you’ll see a delay in spark if it’s wide.  I don’t like the design.

[duster]

I finally have the Oven working fine with the new Ignition board but when the bakers run it up to 500 and then add water into the oven for the moisture to bake bread I get shut down or popping of the main valve fire? Anyone had this problem before?

[fixbear]

Check the floor pan to be straight and not warped or have a hole.  Check the oven vent for obstruction.  They often get stuffed dropped in them or a carbon build-up from grease.  This prevents the steam from going out and corrupts the air mixture of the burner.  If it still persist’s, get a low pan you don’t care about and go to a hardware store and buy the concrete style BBQ bricks.  They look like square triangles.  place them on the bottom for your water. It will make the steam more controlled over a longer period of time and yet very crispy crust with the classic cracking during the cooling.

I experimented with a lot of things over a three year period to make good loaf of bread in a standard oven. Settled on 400F with the heat sink mentioned above. I’m also cooking them on a stone.

[duster]

Thanks Fixbear for the tips with the Garland Ovens. New Ignitor was the fix and your suggestions on using the stones with water for steam is working great. The Bakers’ production is up and the bread is awesome!

[fixbear]

I’m so glad I could help.  Where I live it’s a long way to find good bread. Four simple ingredients can make a multitude of flavor and texture depending how they are treated.  Got to love the a proper crust that crack”s as it cools.

[duster]

FixBear you mentioned checking the Klixon switch but I have an issue trying to locate it? Do you know where it is for an SDG1 oven? The issue I am having it that the oven gets to temp, shuts off then won’t relit? Lots of spark and pilot lights but no main burner.  It has a new Ignition board and I had to replace the 24V transformer for some reason it quit working?

[fixbear]

“L” bracket at the top of the transformer board. Trips if the cooling fan isn’t clean or not to speed.Being the transformer cooked, look at the cooling.

Did you check the fan motor centrifugal switch?

There is no substitute for using a VOM on these.

[fixbear]

What control panel does you oven have?  The high temp is only used on the electronic controlled ones with a cooling fan.