american range oven M1

[ectofix]

He didn’t have a parts manual to send me.  Probably just has a hard copy, so you’ll need to call them.

 

Izzy, let me ask you this.  do you have pilot flame? 

[izzygreen]

I am unsure how to check for that, when the switch is positioned to “cook” the oven fires right up, it will go to whatever temp I set it to, but once it does that; the burners go out and will not reignite unless I turn the oven off and on again

[ectofix]

Okay.  But is the pilot staying lit?  If so, does the pilot relight when you close the door again?

 

By the way.  There is no “so-called” ignition module in that oven.  That white plastic box in the lower-right of your picture is as close as it gets.  That’s just a spark box.  It simply sparks to light the pilot and stops sparking when the pilot is lit.  That’s it.

[izzygreen]

I put a call into American range, waiting on the email from them. I’m not looking forward to explaining to my customer that the other tech company (I wont mention their name but they are nationwide) apparently has no morals. I don’t understand how someone throws parts at a machine and doesn’t complete the repair. I’ll do that sometimes in the shop (never in the field) but if the part that I’ve replaced doesn’t fix the problem then it goes back into the box and the client doesn’t get charged.

 

Anyway, ectofix you’ve been extremely helpful, who needs CFESA when we have you  Thanks so much

[ectofix]

Well, you didn’t answer my questions.  I honestly don’t think it’s the module and there’s more troubleshooting to do.  If you have pilot and the oven did heat at some point, then it’s not the module.  I tend to want you to scrutinize that mercury flame safety switch.

However, as it is – if the flame switch is the possible culprit, the problem could merely be a weak pilot flame…possibly caused by a pressure issue or debris in the pilot burner.

Otherwise, if that flame switch is failing, then you’d be told that it can no longer be had and will have you do an upgrade of the oven…with a new style spark module.

Anyway, calling them is the best thing to do anyway.  Their tech support would be your best guide.

[izzygreen]

I was leaning that way as well, I figured if I am getting ignition at the onset I cannot imagine that it wouldn’t give it to me the next time its called for, but it will give it to me again if I simply cycle the power.

 

I didn’t answer the pilot question because I don’t know. I’d have to go and hook it back up and I’ve put it away until I get the data from American Range

 

thanks again

[ectofix]

Okay.  Well, final note for now.  You can check the module simply by checking input voltage at the blue and white wires coming into it.  If it has 120v, then it should be sparking until a pilot flame appears.  If it’s not getting that 120v, then the problem is elsewhere.

[fixbear]

Izzy, you might want to check the flame safety switch. They are commonly corroded from roll out and are heat effected.

[ectofix]

SIDE NOTES TO POINT OUT:

 

No technician here is smarter than another. We all simply have unique experiences in the field. Some have more time on the job then others.  Yet, we could spend a lifetime doing this and never see it all.  Newer technologies make it challenging for us old farts.  Older technologies make it challenging for you younger ones.

Heck…there was a REALLY OLD flame proof system that I personally only saw ONCE.  I remember that it was at a school, it was in a convection oven…and a TUBE was involved.  No ignition module.  YES – similar to what was used in ’60s era televisions.

Which brings to mind: fixbear, I’m sure you remember those tube-testing stations at grocery stores: 

 

Back then, it was like going to buy a light bulb in order to get the TV going again.

“AH!  The TV’s out again!  Pull the back of the TV off.  Pull ’em all out.  Make a run to the grocery store.  Test ’em.  Buy a new tube.”

I was personally was too young for all that, but…I remember it.

 

The other thing I wanted to stress is the IMPORTANCE of a good, accurate MODEL number.  I hate having to pry that out of someone here, but it’s such a crucial detail in order to pursue the most accurate information for it.

With some manufacturers, it can come down to not only including ALL of the correct letters and numbers, but also any hyphenation and the “dots” in a model number.

Vulcan-Hart is one of the most aggravating.  They may nave a model “VCCB…whatever”…and then a “VCBB…whatever”.  If you don’t read it and translate that accurately, then the technical and parts information is wrong and  “you’re left out in left-field with a hockey-stick awaiting the kick-off!” – (credit to an old friend named John Vesco for that one)

That’s the primary reason why I get so flustered by these DIYer’s just passing through here as they drop up off their “bullet” questions about how their equipment plagues them.  To me, those just resemble “bird droppings” – to put it nicely.  Things resembling a question like…

“UH.  My car won’t start.  WHY?”

 

AGAIN.  The reason I came here was to help technicians.  I’m slowly learning to cope…otherwise.

 

Anyway.  I’m done now.

 

 

[ectofix]

izzygreen, I found some old documents tucked away in my computer that I didn’t think I could possibly possess, so I didn’t look yesterday.  They’re all from 2009.

From my interpretation of your situation, your oven never needed repairs that would’ve required upgrading it.  An upgrade would’ve been required if that flame safety switch had failed.  Like I said before, you can’t get that thing anymore.

 

So, here’s an exploded view of your oven as it is NOW:

MAJESTIC Exploded View-old style

 

Here’s the matching parts list, which is no longer valid since it reflects obsolete parts and configuration:

MAJESTIC OVEN Parts List-old style

 

After that mercury flame safety switch became obsolete, American Range had to hit the drawing board for making a way to convert ovens in the field to a different set of parts for safe and proper flame management.  Here was their revised parts listing:

MAJESTIC OVEN Parts List-upgraded to direct spark system

 

NOTE: I’m sure there was an instruction sheet for all of this, but I don’t have a copy.

 

Here’s their revised wiring diagram:

Majestic-M1 wiring upgraded to direct spark system

 

 

So essentially, when they lost availability of that mercury flame safety switch, their field conversion was to:

add a 24v, two-channel ignition control module and a 24v transformer to power it. incorporate a spark electrode/ flame sensor assembly to each of the two burners. make it a direct spark ignition (DSI) system, which eliminated the need for a pilot burner and solenoid valve.  change the MAIN burner solenoid valve to a 24v version. lastly, eliminate the gas line branch supplying a pilot.

 

NOW…don’t let all this clutter your brain too much.  After all, this just MY contrived history in the evolution of that oven.

American Range might have a newer upgrade kit that more closely resembles their newest line of ovens.  Their newest line of ovens use a 120v, single channel ignition control module – so no need for that 24v transformer.  They might’ve also redesigned the burner assembly to facilitate@ the use of only one spark electrode/flame sensor assembly.

 

With all that shared to you, none of this may even matter.  After all, your problem could be something else.

On that note, if the flame switch isn’t the problem, I suggest testing for a possible problem with the centrifugal switch in the motor.  It might have become pitted, so providing an”iffy” connection when the motor is running.

 

Otherwise, your wise use of a voltmeter can lead you right to this intermittent problem.