2012 KEL-40 – Multiple Issues

[ectofix]

This isn’t a tilt unit, is it?

 

Per your problems:

1. Will not turn off. The switch is turned all the way to the left past the “off detent”. Kettle acts like it’s on the lowest setting.

The on/off switch piggybacks the temp control potentiometer.  That assembly is a common problem with Cleveland kettles.  Here’s that part:

Cleveland SE00115 KIT NEW POT/SWITCH(KEL)

 

I first suggest troubleshooting the problem with a VOM/DMM before replacing it.

 

Electrical connections for a new potentiometer/switch assembly must be soldered. The knob’s set screw commonly becomes corroded to a point where the potentiometer stem must be whacked with a hammer to break it away so the old potentiometer can be removed. 

 

The new potentiometer must be soldered in.  

 

2. Elements fail to switch on. The element on green led is lit but the elements never light up. The operation manual troubleshooting section leads me to believe this is due to a faulty Safety Thermostat.

That problem needs to be troubleshot.  Sure…it could be the safety thermostat – but could also be the 12v relay, a contactor, a loose wire or the solid state temp control.

 

Here’s the schematic:

 

RY2 is the 12v relay

ST1 & ST2 are the contactors

 

Here’s the manual:

Cleveland Operators Manual Installation, Operation & Service Electric Floor Model Kettles KEL40 

[fixbear]

Be aware that if it is off, both contractors will be off/open. However if you have a welded contact or a miss wiring of the primary it may still heat with just one element.  I have come across jumped contact terminals in the past that were done to just get through a shift but left.  On a used piece of equipment one has to be very thorough checking the wiring and control..

[rico]

You may have more than one problem. Do what ecto and fix bear suggests. For me, the thermistor on some of mine goes about once a year. The second is the on/off temp. People are always hitting them and once that happens, all bets are off. In the “duh”! class of things I once had a loose control knob. It had enough drag to turn the switch on and off, but would not move the potentometer. Go figgure.