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Dishwasher, 1 tank is low on temp, need some assistance
olivero replied 6 years, 6 months ago 1 Member · 40 Replies
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Single or 3 phase element? If the wattage is going in, then so is the heat.  So now we have to look at losses. Unless the heat control is intermittent.Â
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  Also you may want to check the lower float switch in that tank. If the float has some water in it as the pump runs it may be going open from the turbulence.Â
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3 phase, 208 V.
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If the low water float cuts off, the entire machine shuts off as it is also the low water protection for the pumps.
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At this point I would do two things. Check the elements individually with a ohm meter.   Watch the temp and the heat relay to see what temp it comes in at and that there is no delay or variation.Â
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The contactor pulls in as soon as the rinse water goes below 180, I was just watching it 2 minutes ago.Â
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I was thinking of ohming them out but I can’t find a valid reason to do it other than the resistance might be different so its giving less heat, but that would show on the amp draws regardless of the resistance being higher or lower, it would show.
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I will do it regardless because I am running out of options. I just put some lights on the tank solenoid valve to see if its open for really long or if its different from the 2 other ones.
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It is possible to have a near normal amp draw. Have seen a partial short to ground but not enough to pop a safety. Ohn for continuity and for short to ground.
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I’d mentioned DRAIN o-rings before, but what about the wash arm seals where they connect to the pump manifold. Check those. If it’s blasting water from those, then water goes everywhere instead of up and down…including sideways…and over into another tank area. Subsequent water loss may make it call for refill too frequently.
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A question out of my own curiosity. Does the entire machine fill via water from the booster tank…or…does it fill straight from house-heated water? I expect you’d find it comes through the booster, but I don’t know that machine. Maybe not.
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There are no O-rings where the manifolds connect, they are made to be without them.
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The water for the machine tanks come from house heated water, the booster is exclusively for the final rinse.
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Have you checked the voltage across all the legs to make sure the voltage is all the same.
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Yes, across all 3 phases, 200-205 V, its wired 208V.
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Any resolution to the problem?
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