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  • olivero

    Member
    March 16, 2017 at 5:15 pm

    Not as of this moment, never got around to ohming it out. Now the pressure reducing valve on the final rinse line started leaking water which I have to fix tonight…….. too many problems but to this issue, it went from 140 to 150* so it magically got warmer, manufacturer recommends slowing down the exhaust fan…..

  • fixbear

    Member
    March 16, 2017 at 8:21 pm

    I believe I mentioned the vents.  Evaporative cooling can be very effective.

  • olivero

    Member
    March 16, 2017 at 8:38 pm

    You did, but the vents haven’t changed its something else. I am just throwing in the towel and trying to get the temp back up one way or another. 

     

    Its just frustrating to try and figure out the same problem, I think it might be an element as that’s all that’s left but I should be seeing something, partial leak to ground, slightly chafed wire, whatever the case is. IT SHOULD SHOW when I check volts & amps, having to disconnect all these elements to ohm them out individually is a pain since the space I have in there is about a foot and its definetley not easily accessible or servicable. 

  • techjoeb

    Member
    March 17, 2017 at 10:48 am

    Just a shot in the dark but is the voltage fluctuating as the unit is working? 3 phase seems to vary at certain times. 

     

    -Joe 

  • fixbear

    Member
    March 18, 2017 at 8:47 am

    It’s time to start over and make sure to not make any assumptions.  A Fluke 87 or higher comes in handy here because one can record highs and lows as you are testing. Also infrared imaging would be a go idea to see if you have a high resistance with the heat circuit.  Especially the connections on the contactor and elements. 

  • rico

    Member
    May 12, 2017 at 5:42 am

    I cut my teeth on the Stero conveyor units so I feel you pain. However the above apply to all the “big”dishwashers. It may have been mentioned above but make sure you don’t have a stuck float, or, a float that is not working in one of these tanks.

    The curtains should be the right length for the position they are located at and, and this one got me a couple of times, the exhaust. If the machine exhaust has been opened too far, it can cause a temp drop in your tanks. The heaters will not be able to keep, once the water is in suspension.

    Rico 

  • olivero

    Member
    October 10, 2017 at 9:27 am

    Well, I appreciate all the input.

     

    Problem is still acting up.

     

    I recently installed a new heat exchange system for the building to keep the incoming water above 150*F at all times.

     

    Now my wash tank is 155*F-160*F

    My rinse tanks are 160-165*F

     

    But I can’t get my rinse tanks to go above 165 for the life of me while the machine is running, 165*F is the MINIMUM temp for that tank, I want it hotter but I can’t get it there.

     

    Stero is not answering any of my phone calls or emails……

  • olivero

    Member
    October 10, 2017 at 11:54 am

    Fixbear,

     

    Booster is fine, Final rinse (minimum of 185*F) is working just fine.

     

    It’s the tank heaters that are not keeping up, Rinse tank I and Rinse tank II

     

    I confirmed with 2-3 different probes that those gauges are accurate.

  • fixbear

    Member
    October 10, 2017 at 12:10 pm

    Per the previous info I believe you have a electric booster.  More than likely a Hatco, what model?.  Am I right?  Ok, at this point you can take nothing for the truth without testing it out and proving it.  So, have you tested your temp probes to be accurate?   Now what is the booster outlet temp. Required to be 180 to 195.  You have already confirmed the tank heaters are working, but what is there set point and temp? 

     

    Verify the machines temperature gauges with a calibrated test probe. 

     

    You may also want to check the booster pressure regulator to be at 20 pounds. Higher pressure than designed will decrease temp capacity. below it’s 70 degree rise.

  • fixbear

    Member
    October 10, 2017 at 12:20 pm

    So what is the set ponits of the problem tanks?  Is the controller coming in at the right temp?  Are your heater amps correct for the KW and voltage?

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