Perlick Model HC24RB-2L D

[fixbear]

Before tapping into a sealed refrigeration system one should use all possible means to be sure it isn’t something else.  Feeling, listening,  and seeing are first.

1)  Is compressor discharge hot or warm.  Suction warm,  cold,  or frozen?

2)  how many amps is the compressor drawing vs. full load amps?

3)  Is the condenser fan moving the right amount of air,  and is the air hot,  warm,  or cool?

4)  Is the condenser discharge at room temp or slightly above?.  Is the dryer the same temperature inlet to cap tube?   And is the cap tube a constant temp as far as you can feel it till it goes into the case?

 

1 should be hot,  2 should be near FLA’s on the compressor plate/tag.  3 should feel air movement with the back of your hand 6 to 8 inches away from behind fan.  4 should not have any abnormal subcooling on the dryer or cap tube.

 

   Now lets go inside.

5)  Are all fan’s running and equal in air movement?

6)  Is the evaporator coil retaining any ice,  and is it clean?

7)  Where is the frost line on the cap tube, beginning of the evaporator, or in the coil?

8)  What is the tail coil temp. Frosted,  cold, or box temp?

 

   5 and 6 are obvious,  7 tells a lot about condition and charge. If the cap tube is frosted, either the tube is plugged or system is low on charge.  At the beginning of the evap, system is working and early into cycle.  But may be low.  Fully into the evap, normal.  8) should be very cold to frosted depending on how long the unit has run.

 

   Now one can make the choice to tap or not. There is a process tube on the compressor for that purpose,  But one need’s special tools.

[guest]

fixbear,

Thanks for the response,

#1 Compressor discharge in warm, but not to hot to touch after 6 hours run today.

#2 The Compressor pulled about 7amp to start then steady at 1.8 amps. (rated run amps is 1.9)

#3 The condenser fan in moving good air and seems room temp

#4 The condenser discharge is room temp to warm

Unsure about this one.  The very thin line that runs to the dryer (from the evap area to a small coiled up section prior to dryer) is frosty to a few inches of that coiled up section.  dryer is not frosted.

#5 All the fans are running (all the time)

#6 The evap coil inbound line gets a little frosty to 1/2 way up the rack.  No frost buildup on coil or finned components. (again, that line is frosted its entire length back to the compressor area.)

 All coil assemblies, fins, and lines are super clean, and in new condition.

#7 I think the best answer is that the frost line is 50% way up the evap coil.  Top does not get frosty.

#8  Not sure what the tail coil means?  Box never get below 45-47 degrees.  Evap coil center area is the same.

+ items checked,

The PCT checked out electronically.  O ohms S->M and OL turned over

I did have 26.6 ohms across the two pins on the compressor.?

No continuity between compressor pins and casing.

Any Thoughts on all this?

Thanks FB

[fixbear]

Ok,  You have a under charged condition. You will need a tube crimper and uncrimper, compact tube cutter, brazing method torch,, 15% Sil-Phos braze stick, refrigerant, emery cloth, Nitrogen bottle with regulator, small bucket with water and a cotton cloth, and a 1/4 inch solder-on tap fitting with seal cap and valve.  A vacuum pump, recovery machine, vacuum gauge, Gauge set, Leak detector, Extra hoses for recovery,  Scale, and recovery tank.  These are required to be on site by EPA before tapping or doing any work on refrigeration. No big deal though, it’s only $25,000 fine.

 

Optionally they sell a self piercing line tap that you clean the process tube, clamp on or braze on,  and screw down the piercing tap.  They do tend to leak over time,  and someone will have to come back in the future to recharge again.

[olivero]

I agree with Fixbear, undercharged has its name written all over this one.

 

He is right though, you need to have all the tools as well as en EPA cert of at least Type 1.

 

you can’t get around using a piercing valve on the system if there is no access anywhere, once you find the leak and fix it, which should be done prior to tapping in, then you will use the piercing valve and then braze in a real access valve with a schrader core. Gassing & Going is not recommended in any case, the leak should just be found, fixed and then the system gets recharged.

 

My guess would be that your leak is either in the evaporator or on the U bends on the sides. 90% of the time, that’s where I find my leaks in my Delfield units.

[fixbear]

You probably will not find one that small.  After all, it is a small system and still has probably 70% of it’s charge by the conditions he has given us.   It is normal for all systems to leak a bit as the refrigerant will go through the copper or any other material over enough time. But a H10 might find something.  They will detect down to .2 oz per year. 

 

   Olivero is right on the leak normally on the low side.  High side generally lose it quick due to pressure.  Low side’s are long and slow till the unit is off.  That’s why on stubborn ones we have to pressurize with nitrogen to over pressure the system.  Then vacate and recharge.

 

Oh, one more thing. He will need a class 2 not 1.   1 is residential with passive recovery.   ..

[techjoeb]

My recommendation is to call Perlick Tech support at 800-558-5592 dial the extension for tech support. They will tell you parts are still made for this generation and see what your warranty status is if you have a serial number. If you are a tech they will be able to walk you through all the particulars and get you the correct part number if necessary. I hope this helps!

 

-Joe 

[fixbear]

I have to apologize to Olivero,   This is in fact a residential 24 inch under-counter wine cooler.  There fore  a class 1 is ok.  Didn’t know Perilick made residential equipment.   I think it may have just been a Asian import rebranded with a cold plate on the back wall, but not sure.  If so they are prone to repairable seam leaks and the cost of repair is far beyond replacement.  Manuals seem to be marginal,  so I’m not positive on the evaporator.

[olivero]

No worries, class 1 is just for 5 pnds or less. That’s the only thing EPA states on it, can be AC units, fridges, freezers whatever, as long as its 5 pnds or below.