Pilot and main gas orifices conversion to LP GAS Blodgett 1060 oven. Can you help me ID the right part numbers?

[ectofix]

Yes.  But first…

 

The part numbers for the specific parts you’re seeking is contingent upon when your oven was manufactured, so you’ll need to know that.  Also, the particular parts you mentioned isn’t all the parts you’d need to do a conversion.  Additionally, along with some basic hand tools, a manometer and a method for detecting leaks of combustible gas are necessary for a proper conversion.  Knowledge of the characteristic differences between natural and LP gases is essential as well.

 

So with these things in mind…and to answer your question regarding part numbers – you can easily find the part numbers you seek in the parts manual for that oven.

 

By the way, a proper and safely done conversion is NOT a DIY project.

[lizzy]

Not just a DIYer. I have combustion experience. The regulator pressure is to be set at 10 inches of water and the orifices size needs to be verified. Main burner orifice number 48 MTD in the pilot orifice is .0115 inch Then the flame needs to be monitored for proper Air/Fuel ratio for stable and correct flame color.I also pose the same question to the manufacture and here is how they replied.

 

Hi Robert,

We need to identify what the unit has for a pilot safety valve. The valve should say on it which type you have.

 

Your manufacture date is 10/07/97.

 

1048 & 1060                     FOR OVENS MANUFACTURED BEFORE 1/18/09 WITH THE FMEA SAFETY VALVE

 

Natural to LP:                     NO KIT NUMBER

 

                                                8717                       Main Burner Orifice (Specify MTD 48)

                                                5387                       Pilot Orifice

                                                10441                    Pressure Regulator – LP

 

1048 &1060         FOR OVENS MANUFACTURED BEFORE 1/18/09 WITH THE FMEA SAFETY UPGRADE KIT TO TS11 WITH 3/16 PILOT TUBING

NAT TO LP                           NO KIT NUMBER

                                              

8717                       MAIN Burner Orifice (Specify MTD 48)

10441                    Pressure regulator-LP

55245                    Pilot splice kit   

 

1048 & 1060        FOR OVEN MANUFACTURED BEFORE 1/18/09 WITH THE FMEA SAFETY UPGRADE KIT TO TS11 WITH ¼ PILOT TUBING

NAT TO LP                           NO KIT NUMBER

 

                                                8717                       Main burner orifice (Specify MTD 48)

                                                10441                    Pressure Regulator-LP

                                                54152                    Pilot Orifice-LP

 

1048 & 1060                        FOR OVENS MANUFACTURED AFTER 2/16/12

NAT TO LP                           NO KIT NUMBER

                                                                                                                              

                                                8717                       Main Burner Orifice (Specify MTD 48)

                                                10441                    Pressure Regulator-LP

                                                54152                    Pilot Orifice-LP

 

John Pare

 

John’s response seems to be more professional to me, trying to solve the problem, instead of disrespecting the person asking the question.

Thank you for your concern

 

Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 13, 2016, at 11:58 AM, Parts Town <customerservice@partstown.com> wrote:

 

[ectofix]

FYI and anyone who happens to read this thread:

 

I am not employed by, nor affiliated with – PartsTOWN.

 

I am simply a twenty year technician who frequents this little forum on my own time…and actually OFTEN do follow through with a little research (on my own time) on behalf of the question proposed – in order to offer limited (but FREE) technical advice.

 

Through my conversations with restaurant owners and managers, I’ve learned that PartTOWN has become their go-to place to seek parts necessary to make their OWN repairs…generally to avoid the labor costs that a service company will charge for service/repairs.  In many cases, a service company was called upon in order to troubleshoot a problem and tell them what’s wrong with the equipment.  Then a “thank-you-very-much” and a “seeya”…and then the manager orders the part(s) on their own and fixes it their self.

 

I get all that.  If I were one of them, I’d probably be compelled to do the same.

 

On the other hand, I have absolutely NO measure of the skill levels, abilities and credentials of those posting questions here.  Yet, I HAVE personally witnessed MANY examples of DIY repairs gone wrong…for which I, as a technician, was called upon to fix correctly.  In rare situations, I was truly amazed that the building was still standing.

 

With regards to questions about certain things (such as the one in this thread) that a self-proclaimed handyman may propose here that obviously reveals their intentions to perform certain repair tasks that are dangerous if not done correctly, my response here (or even face-to-face) is intended to sternly dissuade their undertaking DIY-type repairs that may potentially hurt people or burn down buildings full of dine-outers.

 

My responses will be honest, forthright and sometimes humorous – with either some form of an answer, a place where you can find the answer, a statement that there’s inadequate information to provide an answer…or tell you I won’t provide the answer because what you want to do should be done by a technician.

 

If you find my answer “disrespectful” – that’s not my problem.  You asked…and I took the time (my own time) to answer you.

 

So…you’re welcome.