Cleveland Steamer

[olivero]

Get the model of the gas valve and we can find out.

[john]

Hello,

 

The model number provided didn’t match up exactly with Cleveland units that I found. However, I did find a steamer model 24CGP10. I looked at the manual for this unit here: http://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/CLE-24CGP10_sm.pdf

and found both natural gas and propane specifications for this model.

In addition, there is a model 24GGA10 which also has parts for both gas types. I found that manual here: http://download.partstown.com/is-bin/intershop.static/WFS/Reedy-PartsTown-Site/-/en_US/manuals/CLE-24CGA10_spm.pdf 

 

However, I didn’t see anything about conversion kits. My guess is, if either of these units can be converted, you may not be able to get a kit.

[ectofix]

Probably would require just the usual stuff.  A gas valve and various other gas train components that I won’t name.

 

A natural to LP conversion also requires knowledge/experience in the use of special test equipment…and knowledge in how to make adjustments to the unit the may be needed.

 

Those particular Cleveland steamers can appear quite intimidating, with all the wiring and STUFF going on behind the side panel and underneath.  Not exactly a pleasure to work on – even for a technician.

 

As I will ALWAYS say, conversion to LP should be done by a certified technician.  LP has its own unique hazards and, if not done correctly, could result in quite a volatile outcome.

 

BOOM!

[olivero]

I wonder if you need a flue analyzer for steamers. I use one for my Combis but don’t know about the steamer. Otherwise all you need is a manometer, know how to use it and what your doing and boom (bad choice of words) your good to go.

 

YEEEAH, steamers suck to work on, had a nightmare working on one, stem of the water grounding probe broke off, could not get the wire on, had to take it off, knock the insulating sleeve off, weld a 1/4″ 20 thread onto it to get the wire back on, in the meantime, remember standing up, my back was so sore from that, its not low enough to be comfy on the floor and too low to sit on a crate…. God, the problems we have as techs

[fixbear]

Steamers are always a pain to work on.  Corrosion, electric and water with the added inconvenient height and ussually hidden behind other equipment.. Isn’t it fun to be a tech!

[olivero]

Take it any day of the week over sitting at a desk pushing paper all day.

[ectofix]

olivero wrote:

 

I wonder if you need a flue analyzer for steamers. I use one for my Combis but don’t know about the steamer.

Never had to use one of those until I started maintaining these few Rational gas combi-ovens we have.

 

Everything OTHER gas appliance out there is simply a balance between a specified gas supply pressure setting, fixed gas burner orifices…and air.

 

My gas Rational (and I guess your Cleveland) combi-ovens went about it differently.  I guess due to that large, spiraling hot air heat exchanger or maybe the metal mesh burners…both of which aren’t common in cooking equipment.  The heat exchangers (even the one in the boiler) must move some serious air to distribute the heat evenly and attain proper combustion.

SO…with an elaborate burner blower/control arrangement for atypical burner/heat exchanger designs, no fixed burner orifice (just a metering screw) and a window of “acceptable gas” inlet pressure…we’re required to set a precise fuel/air mixture using a combustion analyzer (C/A) at the flue to guide us on how to properly adjust that metering screw.

 

It’s almost like we’re tuning up an old car that has a carburetor and points-type ignition system distributor…for the array of test equipment we need to carry.

 

I had to do some study on the proper usage of a C/A when I encountered this necessity to set up the Rationals.  I guess it’s common practice for HVAC techs.  Not so much so for us diminutive cooking equipment techs.

[olivero]

Haha, well in fact, Cleveland and especially these combis have whats called a “zero gas pressure system” which is where it pulls the air and gas into the venturi through the combustion blower and it all gets mixed inside the blower and is then shot blown into the burner chamber and ignited. So your gas pressure is able to be in a wide range due to it not depending solely on your gas pressure but more so on the combustion blower and its RPM’s as that is what determines your gas pull. As the unit starts and confirms the flame it goes to a much higher RPM and is burning much more gas than right when it starts getting that top BTU going.

 

pretty interesting system, took me a while to understand it but I see it a lot now. Their kettles and tilt skillets use the same system. Unlike a grill with atmospheric burners that draw their oxygen from the surroundings and the gas is shot into it as soon as the handle turns.

 

Are Rational’s the same?