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Blodgett DFG-200-L Flame not staying lit
I have a Blodgett DFG-200-L 2010 Model w/ manual knob on temp control and timer. I have been having issues with the top oven of the two stacked for about a year. The burner has problems staying lit and in the beginning would just sometimes have the issue but still worked for the most part. As time has gone on it has gotten worse & eventually was able to get it to stay lit by turning the oven to two notches below 400 or 2 notches below 375 and it would stay lit when I turned the temp to those two places. After the flame would stay on and the light would stay on for about 30 seconds I could just put the oven at the temp that I needed and it would stay lit. But over time this has begun to not work and only stays lit rarely and almost never reaches temp before the flame and light goes out. On very rare occasion that it does stay lit & the shut off works fine when it reaches set temp. Any Ideas? Just the temperature sensor/ probe or something else?
Thanks a Bunch
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13 Replies
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It sound more like the
Potentiometer. Use a DVOM to measure the resistance as you turn the knob. Yellow to purple and yellow to orange. It should change steadily without any sudden increases as you rotate it.<h1 itemprop=”name”>
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It seems to be the case. I ordered a new potentiometer and received it yesterday. I had to cut the old one from the oven controller board, so that I had place to attach the wires for the potentiometer to. I attached the wires corresponding to the logical places from the old potentiometer and close the oven back up and try to calibrate the temperature control knob so that the oven works at temp as intended. However it seems to no longer able to operate as intended. Is there somewhere else to adjust the temp on the potentiometer? My other thought is that I did not install the new potentiometer correctly to the oven temperature control board w/attached potentiometer?
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<div>You said:
</div><div>“I had to cut the old one from the oven controller board, so that I had place to attach the wires for the potentiometer to.”
(formatting tools on this site aren’t working)
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So was your potentiometer soldered directly to the board? If your oven is a 2010 model made for the U.S. market, then that’s how they’re made. As such, you will need to order the entire temp control board.
What part number did you order?
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Could you please snap a picture of your control panel and post it here?
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We must have been answering this at the same time. “Ya Beat Me” LOL
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You should have been able to unplug and plug in the wires on the temperature control board one at a time. It’s important that it is wired correctly. Especially the center wire that connects to the pot wiper. They are just 1/4in spade connectors. A serial number is a big help here so that I know what control you have. They have made over 15 different ones for the DFG’s.
You can identify your control in the parts book here.
or even the operation manual here.
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That depends on his control panel. He said it’s a 2010 model.
If it’s just a basic temp control board with mechanical timer (SOLID STATE INFINITE CONTROLS, DOMESTIC MODELS MANUFACTURED AFTER 11/15/06), then the potentiometer comes mounted to the temp board and soldered to it. The board assembly mounts directly to the back of the control panel. That setup does NOT facilitate removal/replacing of JUST the potentiometer. The only exception would be ovens made for the European market (CE).
SOLID STATE INFINITE CONTROLS WITH DIGITAL TIMER, the SOLID STATE DIGITAL CONTROLS 1 & 2 SP TIME & TEMPERATURE CONTROL and the INTELLIHOLD & INTELLIPLUS CONTROLS also require replacement of an entire module.
Otherwise, all the OTHER knob-type ovens with cook & hold, humidity & 8 point temp controls DO have the temp control and potentiometer mounted separately. In such cases, the temp board will be mounted to the side wall of the control box, with the potentiometer lead running to it and connected with faston terminals.
From what he described having to do for replacing the potentiometer, sounds like he has the first one I described.
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Yes it is the 2010 model with the potentiometer soldered to the control panel. I did not realize there was a difference. Because I am in a pinch with Mother’s Day upon us I cut the old potentiometer off and attached the wires to the metal that was left. Surprisingly I was able to get it to light and run at temp. When I first turn the oven on I need to push the door closed really tight to get it to light but after that it works ok. Yes I will buy the all in one temp control board and put it in next week. But because of the door I think I may have just fixed part of the problem. Next week I will know for sure. I’ll throw a pic on here tonight so you can see the Jerry rig lol & you can tell me how crazy I am lol. But seriously you guys rock for the help. Hope it holds till next week!
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There’s a centrifugal switch inside the blower motor which must close for the burners to ignite. The motor must be running for that to happen. In order for the blower to run, the door switch must close.
If you’re having to push the doors in really tight to get the blower to run, then the door switch might be out of adjustment. You want the blower to come on when the doors have about 2″ before being shut.
Another possible cause for that is that the door’s pressure lock has gotten flattened out (or broken) and is no longer maintaining enough spring tension between the two doors to effectively hold them closed. Proof of this when the doors seem to want to push back open slightly when the blower has ramped up.
Here’s a video addressing that issue:
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Nicely done!
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If the potentiometer checks out, I would take a good look at the flame sense probe. It is located in the burner pilot assembly. You will most likely have to pull the assembly to gain access to the probe. Once you have the flame sense probe out, give it a good cleaningwith a scotch brite pad or a piece of sandpaper. Reassemble and test. Hope that takes care of your issue.
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Had a similar issue. I have southbend gas oven, a cleveland double steamer, cleveland combi oven and the the same Blodgett oven as you hooked up in that order. The Blodgett ovens would not function properly. It turns out we had a crack in the main underline gas line(propane). All the other equipment would function fine. I am relatively new and dont have the experiance of alot of the guys here, but i would try checking the gas flow and volume.
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It only happens on the top of the two ovens. So I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the gas. The bottom oven still works perfectly.
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