Where can I purchase 2 floater probes for my lolo steamer

[john]

What’s the model of your LoLo steamer? 

[john]

Since I’m not sure of the model, this Groen probe also fits the LoLo ST-6E. I can’t say with certainty if it also fits the 6G or the 4E/4G.

 

http://www.partstown.com/groen/gr149880 

 

Perhaps checking our PartSPIN view against the part you have in hand will provide more insight. If it’s not the one you’re looking for, you at least have a starting point for your search, as Groen and LoLo are both part of Unified Brands.

 

they do not last hard water did them in…

 

I must advise: hard water can reduce the life of your equipment by as much as 75%. Meaning something that can last 8 years could only last 2 years. Seriously consider contacting a water professional for a solution to your hardness issues, and stick to a strict descaling schedule. This is from the ST-4E/6E manual

I hope this helps!

 

-John

[ectofix]

I’ll point out that scale is singularly the greatest cause of steamer oven system failure.  Consider that, when water boils, steam is pure while it leaves solids behind within the vessel that boiled the water to make that steam. 

 

Example: Boil water in a cast-iron or Teflon-coated pan (because they’re dark in color).  Boil it until all water has evaporated.  Afterwards, there’s a white powdery coating left behind.  That’s lime scale.

 

By design, steamers don’t run dry.  Yet, the lime scale is still there.  Through the course of just one day of cooking, lotsa water is brought in to maintain that consistent water level.  Hence…more lime scale.

Layers of that powdery coating will build up over time.  It may not be immediately visible when it’s still wet or on a lighter colored metal surface, but it’s there.  After several weeks of that buildup, you potentially have enough scale (solids) to begin flaking off and causing problems…like clogging drains, lodging within the drain solenoid valve, blocking the water fill port, poor heat transfer from the heating medium, interference with water sensing devices (be it a probe or a float switch), etc.  It only gets worse from there.

 

I’ve always advised to my customers with light to medium cooking loads to purchase a boiler-less countertop steamer (which a Lolo is) rather than units with a built-in steam generator (such as a Groen HyPerSteam series).  WHY?  Because the need for user cleaning and maintenance is FAR more obvious and simpler with a boiler-less steamer.  Especially with regards the scale buildup.

Besides, what could be simpler?  Boiling water into steam inside a hidden tank (like a steam generator or boiler)…or in a unit that simply boils the water INSIDE the cooking compartment…directly underneath the food being cooked?  I like second choice better.  It’s all right there.

 

So, with the old steam-generator-based countertop units, it was always out-of-site, therefore out-of-mind.  The scale was present, but the user couldn’t see it.  THEN…months later…when failure occurs, the expense of a technician (like me) would be required.  By the way: My preferred tools in such a case would ultimately be a hammer, some make-shift forms of various chisels…and a shop-vac.  Give me a coupl-a hours (at an expensive hourly rate) and I might turn that steamer back over to you WITHOUT having to replace expensive parts that scale buildup fouls up.

 

With boiler-less units (your Lolo), the boiling of water occurs RIGHT THERE – underneath an easily removable grate within the cooking compartment.  All one has to do is to look there DAILY and, if there’s any evidence of a white, chalky film, then delime it – using something as cheap as vinegar or Lime-a-way.

 

Anyway, I wrote this in a broader scope to reveal that maintenance on a boiler-less steamer is FAR simpler than the steamers in use ten-or-so years ago.  A good dose of vinegar three or four times a week…following the instructions that partstownjohn provided…should eliminate the need for frequent replace of failed float switches…or other potentially expensive issues.