Dixell controller XR06cx-5N0C1

[fixbear]

Depends on the make of the cooler as to how it is wired. Does it have one or two thermistors? Is one of them bonded to the coil? Does the unit have a defrost heater?

Normally coolers have one that air senses. Freezers have two, one to monitor defrost cycles. They also have a fan delay in the freezer models to wait for the coil to be below the box temp.

Normally the fans are wired in series with the door switches to stop the fans when you open a door. I suspect you may have a fan motor with a bad bearing that does not start all the time. If one fan does not run to speed, the air flow does not pull through the coil, but just circulates between the fans. That will also cause ice in one area of the coil.

The model Dixel you have is a 2 probe low temp. so it does have the delay. And defrost function. Make sure that the sensors are wired correctly.

[fixbear]

BTW, a “da” alarm is a open door switch. All four doors are on a series circuit to the controller. Ohm the circuit as you open and close the doors.

[fixbear]

Be aware that moving wires around on the controller is dangerous. You can wipe out the fan or defrost relay quickly by moving the compressor wire to them. Only the compressor relay in the controller is 20 amp. The others will only take 10 amps. On your model.

[czechmateau]

Good day Mr fixbear,

I appreciate your response very much. Thank you for taking your time with my post. I know there is 1 Thermistor hanging on the coil (black wire attached to coil) but have to double check that again. I will let you know. I’m not sure if the fridge has defrost heater but I know there is some kind of automatic defrost going on. I was thinking about the 2 fans as well as it would be logical thing to do, because of the fan icon displayed on controller. Or I haven’t noticed that before. When I open 2 top doors together or even one by one and hold the switches, both fans turn on and also turn off depends on the switch position of closed or open door. So that seems working.Also lights turns on and off when open and close door. This 4 door fridge has 2 door switches on top doors only. I already replaced one switch before, few weeks back, because of that (dA) Alarm. But only the door , which is used the most. These switches are so hard to take out of the unit.I had to literally destroy the switch to be able to take it out of the front of the fridge. The back side have steel caps glued to the fridge and I was unable to remove it. These caps cover wires and the door switch from inside. The two fans inside don’t make any weird or loud noise.I keep checking them how they spin. Both are very fast and also stop together at the same time (not sure how else to check the fans). Now about the controller. I wired the sensors exactly the same as on the original controller (just tried to swap the fan wire around but no more) Also one note. The original controller same brand Dixell and number, works still well with the fan wire (brown color cable) connected to number 2 on the controller. But the fridge temperature just keeps jumping excessively up and down from 24c to 4c and then back with 1 or 2 hours. I set the temperature to 3c in the set menu Hy. The fridge temperature inside is about 3-4 c but on the controller display shows 5c sometimes 6c. The reason I bought new controller was I thought it is broken, because of the temperature jumps. Do you think the thermistor could be faulty? I will check soon how many thermistors is inside . Also I think the iced up tube in the corner could happen after I opened the top lid to get to see the fans and coils. Maybe I didn’t tight up the lid screws enough and warm air got inside. Now I don’t see any ice build up anymore. This fridge is one BIG headache haha. But I really would like to find out was the problem is. The fridge brand is (Tropical Thermaster). I have attached pictures as well. I hope it all make some kind of sense. Thank you so much for your help Mr fixbear.

IMG_20211028_133552.jpg 130 KB Image File - Click to view Copy Download Link IMG_20211028_133601.jpg 173 KB Image File - Click to view Copy Download Link

[fixbear]

The 24C you see may be a defrost cycle. As long as the product stays at 4-6C your good. Also you will notice that the fan emblem is on only when cooling. It’s not a alarm. It will be off in a defrost mode and the melting snowflake will display. If the thermistor has been moved from it’s original location and mount, It may be picking up temp from the fan motor. Or the thermistor is intermittently faulting. Check it with a ohm meter.

Often with a digital controller, the maker will us the controller to turn the fans on and off. This requires a 2 pole switch to also turn on the lights. And yes, the cheap push in switches are getting more common. You have to be able to squeeze the two lock tabs to remove it. Not easy if you can’t get to the back.

Now, the new Dixel came with a programming and wiring sheet. They build them with a lot of different features and wiring possibilities. One often has to rewire by using the machines wiring diagram with a generic replacement. Only the original manufacturers part will be a direct replacement. And at times you’ll even find that they have been superseded and have to have a machine rewire. Check the 2 Dixel controller schematics to be identical. Depending on what relays, load, and features the Dixel has it can cost anywhere from $50 to $500 dollars.

Is the Model a SUF-1000 or a SUC-1000? They are not sold here in the US. They are specific built for the Aussie market by TEMPERATE THERMASTER to handle their climate. Beyond that I can’t tell you much. I don’t have access to their wiring diagrams.

[czechmateau]

Great stuff Mr fixbear,

Thank you.

The fridge is running ok 2nd day now. It is not perfect like before but running so far. Just waiting if temperature will go up hi again. Because when it stayed at 24c it lasted the whole night . When I came back the next day it was just bloody warm inside and had to turn it off. If it starts to get warm again I will definitely ohm the thermistor. But there was one thing I have noticed the first time I checked the coils. 3 rubber looking square mats under the coil. I think it has something to do with the water and coils ? But the 3rd mat was way off the alignment with the other two. I just pushed it under the coil right in the corner where it used to be icy. That was weird as nobody opened that part of fridge since I bough it 7 years ago. Also I checked all wires from the controller for continuity with ohm meter. I touched one wire with the black cable and different wire with the red cable and all the wires made sound plus numbers came up as well. But the brown wire (fan) had no sound and no numbers were coming up. Then I followed the brown cable to this box full of other wires and checked both ends of the brown wire for continuity and it made sound. Also checked the connectors with red cable which goes to fans and they were all connected. So now I still get the aD alarm all the time but the fridge works so far. 2 new Dixell controllers have identical wiring on the diagram as the original one. I’m not sure what model SUF-1000 or SUC-1000 are you reffering to. Is it the Fridge or Dixell controller? I have attached the fridge wiring diagram. Thanks mate

IMG_20211029_162542.jpg 159 KB Image File - Click to view Copy Download Link

[czechmateau]

I see now. SUC is the name of the fridge .

IMG_20211029_162542.jpg 159 KB Image File - Click to view Copy Download Link

[fixbear]

fan wire to number 2 on the controller the fans inside the fridge won’t spin.

That means that the evaporator sensor is not telling the controller that the evap is cold. Or the relay in the Dixel is bad from a shorting or overload. It only will take 8 amps. Only the 3 terminal is 20 amps capacity. Note that you wiring diagram uses double throw switches for the fans and light. Light power comes off a different source than the fans. You say that the fans will run with the fan (brown) wire in 8. problem is that 6, 7, 8 are not used or powered. That means that the yellow wire is probably in the 6 position instead of the 5. You should have lime voltage between 1 and 5 or 4 and 5. One and four are parallels and should read zero across them.

But the brown wire (fan) had no sound and no numbers were coming up. Then I followed the brown cable to this box full of other wires and checked both ends of the brown wire for continuity and it made sound.

That brown fan wire goes to the electrical box and connects to the red that goes to the fans. Make sure those connectors are good.

Just for you information, Normally in the field when I can across a sudden warming and then it would cool for a period and again do the same. It usually came down to a compressor hard start. Next time it happens, first check the compressor temp. See if it has been tripping and the case is hot. Is the condenser clean and condenser fan at speed. air out of it should be about 15 F above ambient. And the liquid pipe at the bottom the same.

You say you have owned this for 7 years. Has the refrigerant system been opened at all in say the last year? I assume this is a cap tube system. One of the elusive things to find is water droplet in the refrigerant icing the supply internally. It’s rare, but I’ve seen it. It blocks the flow of liquid to the evaporator yet the call for cooling is still there. So the machine still runs but does not cool the box or the compressor. Just something to keep in mind.