You won't find to many tech's to have experience with that oven on this forum as it is more a domestic design. However, look in the top of the oven at the broiler igniter and see if the wires go to a removable plate. The leads are not that long, 10 inches, So the connection has to be close. Let alone that they come with insulated spade terminals attached. Be advised to be carefull of the seal and insulation.
Also be aware that the safety valves on this oven only open when there is a correct current flow through the igniter. You can actually have a working igniter that the valve does not open from aging of the igniter. Also because the valve has a bi-metal operator that has to be heated with the current, it can does take a bit of time to light. There is no flame proofing system. Totally scary for us that work on gas controlled burners.
In that case, you'll have to slide it out of the wall. Make sure you have a stout surface to slide it on the same height as the bottom of the oven. Turn off the gass first, as you have no knowledge of the flex tube supply line condition. There has to be a hole big enough for the connectors to feed thru and be resealed. I may be a screwed on channel from the igniter to the rear wall. The only thing I find on this oven is a brief parts book.
I highly do not recommend doing that on a domestic oven. Those leads are special and designed for 450F. The slightest resistance difference with this type of gas valve will make it not light. I've seen units that the silicon carbide igniter glows, but will not light just because the igniter os old and oxidized. Even house voltage below 115V will cause a delay or no start.