Support / FAQs / About techtown

Home Forums The Hot Side Electric Frymaster fryer not getting power to the element after swapping it out

Tagged: 

  • Electric Frymaster fryer not getting power to the element after swapping it out

    Posted by marketingtomaintenance on February 14, 2020 at 5:28 pm

    I have an electric Frymaster, model FPRE317CSD, that is not getting power to one element after swapping it and the contactor switches after a short in the element. Now we are not getting any amp draw readings on the element that was replaced and on two of the six on the other element. 

    Double checked the wiring and it all looks correct. Any ideas as Frymaster tech support is stumped at this point.    

    coolertapt replied 4 years, 2 months ago 7 Members · 16 Replies
  • 16 Replies
  • nafets47

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 5:50 pm

    Are you getting power to the contactor switches?

    How many knobs are there to initiate power?

    Are these knobs functioning?

    Do you have a wiring diagram for the machine?

    • marketingtomaintenance

      Member
      February 17, 2020 at 8:55 am

      I do believe these are the wiring diagrams that go to this unit. The manual I have has all power varieties of this fryer so I may be wrong.

  • nafets47

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 5:52 pm

    when I was asking about the knobs, you stated that you are getting amp draw on some of the elements, but is there a knob for each?

    Also something to think about is that if there was an issue that late on the chain (elements) there was most likely an issue earlier in the line which is why I was asking about the wiring diagram.

  • fixbear

    Member
    February 14, 2020 at 6:22 pm

    You say that the element you replaced had shorted.  Being a 3 phase machine, That would have opened a safety.  Fuse or breaker supplying that leg.  Get out your trusty DVOM and check the input voltages on the contactor, Phase to phase, not to ground.  One Phase will not read to the correct voltage to both of the others. That’s the one with the open fuse..

  • ectofix

    Member
    February 15, 2020 at 3:36 pm

    I’ve been trying to respond to this thread since yesterday evening.

    Sounds like you need to check the element wiring again. It’s REALLY easy to get their wires crossed (trust me…I KNOW!).

    I’ve attached my own rendition of a page out of Frymaster’s training manual. I made some colorized changes and included terminal & wire numbers to it for the sake of clarity.

    Wire BOTH element assemblies the same way as that little table on this sheet depicts and you should be good again.

  • isitfridayyet

    Member
    February 16, 2020 at 8:22 pm

    That sounds like your missing a leg. Could be a wiring issue or a bad contractor maybe. Just follow the circuit from the contactor to the element, checking phase to phase, not phase to ground and see if your missing a leg. Looking at the diagram, their actually single phase elements, using a 3 phase power source, so if you loose one leg it will affect several elements.

    • ectofix

      Member
      February 16, 2020 at 8:38 pm

      Pictured below is what comprises ONE element assembly.

      There are TWO of these for one frypot. They’re connected in parallel.

      They’re not single-phase element assemblies and aren’t connected in series. So…NO – one element leg going out does not affect another.

  • isitfridayyet

    Member
    February 16, 2020 at 11:40 pm

    Looks to me that each assembly is 3 single phase elements (probably bundled together) so if you lose a leg, or accidentally feed the same leg to both sides, you wouldn’t have a circuit. Anyway….. good luck

    • ectofix

      Member
      February 17, 2020 at 5:10 am

      or accidentally feed the same leg to both sides

      You are correct there. That’s usually what happens when a tech gets confused while wiring in new elements.

  • fixbear

    Member
    February 17, 2020 at 8:39 am

    I never asked if this was a solid state unit and what power it’s on

  • marketingtomaintenance

    Member
    February 17, 2020 at 8:52 am

    Its 480v and the contactors are a (new 50 amp 3 pole and 40 amp 3 pole

  • olivero

    Member
    February 17, 2020 at 9:21 am

    So what happened? did you figure it out?

    Start at the contactor, is it engaged? Do you have power on both sides going to the element?

  • fixbear

    Member
    February 17, 2020 at 11:02 am

    They still use the contractors with the solid state on one side, but SSR’s on the other side. That’s why I asked..

Page 1 of 2

Log in to reply.