Electric Frymaster fryer not getting power to the element after swapping it out

[ectofix]

Solid state relays are only used in fryers having a “T” following the actual numbers in the full model designation. The one in question in this thread does not.

So, this fryer uses conventional contactors:

Usually (but not always) a mercury one as the HEAT contactor (controlled by the temp controller) A mechanical one is used as the LATCHING contactor (controlled by the safety chain).

Wiring of the elements to the contactors can get confusing since there’s twelve element wires converging into a box containing two contactors that are horrible to access.

With this being an RE (rotating element) fryer, two Molex connectors (a six and a nine pin) are meant to make replacing the elements easier. However, the elements don’t come with wire end pins pre-installed into ITS new Molex plug – in order for an element to be connected through EITHER ONE included in the kit. Hence, back to some confusion and the potential for mis-wiring.

Additionally, he said he’d replaced the contactors. So there was the potential of mis-wiring those upon install as well.

I could go on, but I’m just emphasizing that the wiring needs to be checked per a decent wiring diagram. However, Frymaster’s wiring diagrams are TERRIBLE. So, I mocked up one more, which I’ve attached below. This one is for JUST a FULL VAT (per the model number), which is far simpler than the diagrams in the book that ALSO include wiring for split-vat fryers (or DV for dual-vat). Nobody uses those except McDonald’s.

[ectofix]

I should add that the new Molex connectors’ pin sleeves ARE numbered. You gotta look REALLY hard to see them…even with a magnifying glass and a flashlight.

Additionally, most Molex connectors will “flag” the #1 pin location to make it easy to find it…although I’m not sure that’s the case with those plugs which came with the element.

[coolertapt]

I’ve replaced many of the contactors ( such a painin some big company fast foods) and it’s real easy to not have the wiring right…. I think a saw you replaced contactors and the elements. Double check your wiring.

I think big failures tend to take out everything from the problem to the last electrical components inline. I’ve taken out a phase of a restaurant beforetripped a 600amp breaker. Those plugs in the wall and the cord caps on those electric fryer make my butt pucker sometimes will all the grease on them.