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Frymaster FPH155-SD issue starting
So new issue, with my Frymaster.
It requires the door to be left open and a couple attempts at starting for the fryer to start and stay lit all day long without issue.
Only the initial start up is an issue.
Also as an additional piece of information the flame is blue, when it is recommended that it be orange. When I open the restriction on the blower any further it pushes too much air in and the flame gets blown out.
Additionally I have taken apart the blower and it was clean with nothing obstructing the movement of the blower wheel.
Is this likely a deficiency in gas flow?
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8 Replies
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It requires the door to be left open and a couple attempts at starting for the fryer to start and stay lit all day long without issue.
Only the initial start up is an issue.
Go to the manual and read the section 1.1.1 It sounds like your Forgetting the melt feature when it’s below 160F. Manual is here.
As for the door needing to be open, I don’t believe it. Unless there is some wiring not where it belongs. Or the cabinet venting is blocked by placement of the machine or something else causing a build up of heat to the electronic section.
Again, with a multiply ignition try of a cold machine, We commonly look at the burner ground system. Both burners. You may have a ground wire screw that is not clean or tight. Also make sure that the control board power is full voltage. To low and it will not make the call for heat.
Now the flame issue means you have a lean mix. Check your gas manifold pressure with a manometer. The flame should not leave the burner at the base, but should also have a bit of color change at the tips. Excess Yellow is rich and unburned fuel that will make carbon deposits on the ceramics and stack.
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look at the burner ground system.
I forgot to mention the other common high resistance on the sensing circuit. And that’s the flame sensor itself. In normal operation it has to go from ambient air temp to over 2500F. Thats a lot of expansion and contraction. Also at those temp’s there has to be some oxidation.
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The blue flame without turning orange sounds like a gas pressure issue. Do two things:
Check the gas hose quick disconnect and make sure it’s fully seated. While your back there, also check the gas supply valve and make sure it’s fully open. After you’ve done that… Connected to a port on the front of the combination valve, there’s a cross-T fitting. That’s the fitting with tubing out of each side to supply the ignitor enrichment tubes. On front of that fitting is a plug. Remove the plug, connect a manometer and operate the fryer. You should have a steady 3.0″WC.-
Great I will check that. I was looking for the pressure in the manual I was supposed to be getting but I couldnt find it. (maybe I was not looking hard enough)
I checked the connections and I am all good there. I think you nailed it on the melt cycle. The chef’s did that this morning and I got no complaints.
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The more complicated and efficient they get the more problems they have. And the more sensitive they are to service. Everyone thinks it’s just a fryer, but today they are as sophisticated as it gets in the control cycles and efficiency of energy to work. They also extend the shortening life a long way from years ago.
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Very true, with the Rational I found this to be a concrete fact.
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<div>I was looking for the pressure in the manual I was supposed to be
getting but I couldnt find it. (maybe I was not looking hard enough)</div><div>
For future reference: Operating pressures on ANY gas appliances are always on the data plate/sticker.
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Wow. Thanks for the datum. Good to know.
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