If after the 3 min lockout you have nothing other than the power light, here are what to look for. Ice machine troubleshooting is highly on listening, visual, and sound. Being I’m not able to do any of them for you, I ask that you take the time to accurately describe for me what you observe.
A no start is most often water supply, high limit lockout, or bin full errors. Rarely control board. First level the machine with a torpedo level both front to rear and side to side. Important!
Look for a pressure switch with a red button on the compressor high side. Most machines this kills the power to the control board, but not all. But it is worth checking to be open. If when you push it, it clicks. Then be sure to check air flow through the condenser. ie; fans, and controllers, and cleanliness of condenser.
Now check you water supply to be filtered and of adequate pressure to fill the sump. Make sure the water level sensor is in place. (if equipped) And not coated with minerals.
Now check the water curtain switch. If you lift the curtain away from the evaporator, the microswitch will click and the bin full light should come on. Slowly close the curtain and when the inner edge goes over the outer lip of the bottom the switch should close. It is adjustable and is a pain to get it just right.
Best I can tell, this machine is a foreign copy of a Ice-O-Matic. But built to a less expensive design. ie. Cap tube, no harvest assist minimal sensors, and overrating its capacity. Normally ice machine model numbers indicate capacity per day. Like a 452 would make it a 400 pound per day machine. But like all contract sales built kitchen equipment, their marketing is overselling it when it’s only a 300 lb. machine. Max has done this with coolers and freezers as well. Your lucky that you even got parts from them. The first Max machine I worked on they have to remove parts from one in stock for a warranty repair. Hopefully they have gotten away from the SC compressor. But that’s another story.