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MANITOWAC IY0524A—alert, T4, starving txv, ice probe
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Oh yea, the supply power inside the can is also a ribbon cable that goes 3/4 around. Sometimes the rub through from repeated start’s, but only short at the start phase. They’re the hard ones to find. Till they burn open.
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So I changed the compressor- and the pressures are messed up still Manitowoc said “if the pressures are that high (125/245) it “HAS TO BE THE COMPRESSOR”–so i changed it. Then he said “well it can only be the hot gas valve”.
Is this the hot gas valve?
Manitowoc Ice 000007028 Service Valve Sol Evul3 230V 3
Mines 120V- but these seem to be on backorder everywhere. You cant even get thse on ebay or amazon!
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Wow, gotta love that.
You’re sure it’s not the TXV?
I would think you could somehow verify if the hot gas valve is staying open or not closing properly.
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Why do you say the pressures are high? R-404 does run high, but the hot gas valve has nothing to do with it unless it is leaking and you have a low head pressure. You need to check the cooling of the condenser if the head is high. Dirty, fan speed and air movement, Measure the top and bottom temps to be certain. Don’t forget that the control senses the head temp at compressor discharge to cycle the fan to keep the head up in cooler ambient temps. You can go in the service menu and read the temp that it is seeing.
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This maybe a dumb question. But have you checked what the pressures are supposed to be for the unit? It seems that whoever it is that you are talking to at Manitowac doesnt know what they are talking about as they keep saying replace parts which is not resulting in the thing working.
On one of the refrigerators I worked on recently the pressures were unusually high for most
refrigerators but it ended up being correct for that unit. So I would
ask next time you call their tech support to speak with one of their
supervisors to verify what the pressures are actually supposed to be. In
my case it ended up being just a bad fan.If the ice machine was working, and (assuming) without issue before you were called it should be something simple. There are not that many parts to the unit.
Have you checked voltage from the wall throughout the unit to verify you are getting the correct voltage to the end? Also have you checked amps draw on the compressor, is it correct level?
One of my ice machines, tech support told me to replace part after part. I am talking, board, float sensor, temp sensor, float stem, etc. In the end it was just a stuck flow switch that once cleaned resulted in the whole unit running fine and now I have a bunch of parts which are totally fine sitting on my shelf because I expected these people to know what they were talking about. If I had just put in a bit more time, verified and checked voltage and ohms throughout the unit, I would have saved a bunch of time and money for the client.
Last thing, did you check the capacitors?
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They are published in the tech manual above. But here is a quick referance;
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Apparently the site doesn’t like a clipped image anymore. So if you go the this tech manual, page 235, all conditions are posted according to ambient
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Tell us what the pressures are and where in the cycle the machine is at the time of measurement.
With ice machines, the suction pressure is constantly changing from a high point at the beginning of freeze to a low point just before harvest. It then goes up drastically during the harvest (hot gas defrost).
Remember that any added water during the freeze cycle will prevent ice making. The capacity of the compressor will not make up the heat loss from and water coming in and going down the overflow..
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I’m thinking TXV or hot gas defrost, it can’t be anything else at this point, something is leaking by.
You could remove the hot gas defrost and braze the tube shut, then try it and see if it works, if it does, then you know it’s the hot gas, if not, it’s the TXV.
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Olivero, I can’t agree with that method. Besides being invasive to the system and very labor intensive, There are easyier ways. Like a clamp on temp probe. If you have two, put one on the compressor discharge near the compressor. Use the other to compare flow at the hot gas valve and downstream of the tee for the evaporator. If there is a leak, it will be very obvious.
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It stays at 125/245 ish. High I haven’t paid as much attention to but it’s close to that
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OK, 125 is a long way away from 245. Your talking 60F or 108F compressor discharge. And that should be close to T1. No where near high pressure in that system. Basically what your saying is the the room ambient is cool and the fan switch is coming on at 240 psi. Close to where it belongs. But to cool of a room to function as designed efficiently.
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What is hot gas valve called where is it snd how do I pinch it off per Brandon at manitowac
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Hot gas valve is also called the harvest valve or defrost valve. On your machine it is on a line tee from the compressor discharge, through a strainer then the out side tee’s into the evaporator inlet. It’s not really necessary to pinch it off if you know that you are in ice mode and just feel the discharge side of it. Should be cool. If it’s hot, it’s leaking.
If you don’t have a pinch-off tool. you will need one in the future. It squeezes the line down to seal it and then has a set of dies to make it back round and open. It’s used on ice machines to change out the fan switch without removing the charge. But also all the new coolers, they have no tap nor are we allowed to leave a tap on after charging anymore. So you crimp it down, cut off the end of the process tube, braze on a temp fitting. squeeze it back open to charge. Then squeeze it back, unbraze, and braze shut the process tube.
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I was unable to type- for some dumb reason so I typed a word doc- then loaded it But thats a hassle. Anyway- basically I said “yes I have a pinch off tool- but didn’t know what brandon from manitowac tech support was talking about when he said “pinch it off”. I like your idea Fixbear- to see if one side is hot or not. Also I used my yellow test coil and removed white coil for a second- it melted. BUT evaporator got cold.
Can i change the “harvest valve” while unit is in the machine on a soda fountain—or would i be better off taking it down and putting it on a work bench (i know answer)—I just want to know if its doable or not. I have concerns about getting good solid leak free joints.
Also, welbilt gave me about 6″ of solder to use on compressor- “56% silver solder with flux core” Does anyone know what that product is? I want to buy some—it was so incredibly easy and I can use air acetylene because it didn’t need as much heat as sil fos. It was awesome.
At first I thought “wow they are chintsy” but the little bit they gave me was exactly enough–I think I had about 1/4″ left over when compressor AND new filter were installed. So technically I had extra.
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My computer won’t let me type anything to post. The file I loaded says that I removed the white coil snd used yellow cps test magnet. Ice machine got cold but no water running so no ice. Anyway after 1-2 min that white coil melted. Not sure what that means. Yes I have pinch off tool I just didn’t know what the guy meant.
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He is thinking that the defrost solenoid valve is leaking during ice making. By pinching it off, it’s eliminated from the cooling circuit. But just feeling it will tell you if it’s leaking.
White coil?
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